Formex is a brand that engineers its watches as much as it designs them. The new Stratos UTC is, in my opinion, the clearest example of this kind of duality. This is not a watch that echoes softness or subtlety. It is, in fact, unapologetically mechanical, visually assertive, and functionally deliberate. Everything about it feels intentional, from the angular case geometry to the way each surface finish seems to have been chosen to emphasize utility first and polish second. Yet somehow it feels every bit at home under a dress-shirt sleeve as it does under more rugged outerwear. This duality is perhaps the most fascinating thing about this watch, followed closely by the engineering and functionality that Formex has put into it.

A case built like equipment.

The Stratos case is 41 mm across and just 11.8 mm thick, landing in a sweet spot right between robust and wearable. The design borrows cues from their existing portfolio: the suspended case system, the sharply defined facet, the oversized deeply fluted crown. Yet somehow it feels condensed and tightly integrated. Every visible surface shows a very considered approach. Brush finishing dominates, while sandblasting fills recessed areas on the sides of the case. The only places on the case that show any polish are the chamfered edges.

The end result is a sort of modern brutalism: a mix of layered metalwork that communicates strength without bulk.

That attention to detail extends to the functional components as well. Two pushers on the right side at first suggest that this is a chronograph, but they actually control the jumping local hour hand. On the opposite flank is a discreet corrector that can be actuated with a pen or a pin and is used to advance the date pointer located in the small sub-dial at six o’clock. This is a compact and clever setup. It keeps the dial balanced while preserving a tactile mechanical interaction you will find hard not to fidget with.

More Than a GMT

Formex calls this watch a UTC rather than a GMT. That distinction is actually meaningful here. Most Swiss independent watchmakers rely on Sellita’s office GMT calibers, where the 24-hour hand is quick-set while the main hour hand remains static.

The Stratos UTC flips that. The local hour hand is set via the side pushers. This allows travelers to adjust to new time zones on the fly without changing the 24-hour reference hand.

I want to take a moment here and talk about this setup. As I mentioned earlier, most Swiss independents and micro brands that want to do GMTs are somewhat limited to the Sellita-made calibers. Right now, Sellita only makes office GMTs that are available at the price points that most of these makers want and need. Japanese movement maker Miyota recently released a true traveler GMT movement that has allowed indies and micros to start selling traveler GMTs for under a thousand dollars. But, to my knowledge, there isn’t yet a Swiss movement maker that is doing this.

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Here’s where things get interesting with the Stratos. It doesn’t use a Sellita movement. It doesn’t even actually use a known GMT movement. Rather, it is based on the high-frequency ETA 2892 movement, which is an automatic self-winding caliber. What Formex has done is taken the ETA 2892 and fitted it with a custom module designed specifically for this functionality, made by Dubois-Dépraz.

I want to reflect on that for just a moment. Formex is a Swiss maker, located in the heart of Swiss watchmaking country, above the very workshop that manufactures their cases and other parts. I own a couple of their pieces myself, including an office/caller GMT. But they don’t make a watch with a traveller GMT.

At present, there are no traveler GMT movements made in Switzerland that are available to independent and micro-brand watchmakers (to my knowledge, anyway). So, if a Swiss brand wants to make a traveler GMT, they have to do so in a very unorthodox way. That is exactly what Formex did. By fitting a custom module on top of a well-known standard ETA movement, they have managed to pull off what I do not recall a single microbrand being able to do in recent memory.

If you’re not picking up what I’m putting down, I’m saying that this bit of movement engineering just proved that Formex has the chops to do something more than just design well. And, while this doesn’t come cheap at just under $4500, I look forward to seeing what else they come up with.

Layers of Function and Texture

The excellent mechanical engineering doesn’t mean that Formex has left their design DNA and ethos behind. The dial, in fact, carries that attention to detail forward. It’s almost architectural, a stepped composition with concentric textures that shift under the light. The outer 24-hour bezel ring is heavily brushed, as is the rehaut. That is followed by the main dial, which is textured in a way that resembles finely-milled tarmac. On top of that, a sunburst metallic center is intersected by a small circular sub-dial for the date. That sub-dial forms a subtle Venn-diagram overlap with the main dial. I think this is a really cool example of Formex’s ability to play with dimensionality rather than relying just on color contrast, as the sub-dial has that same texture resembling finely milled tarmac.

A day/night indicator on the dial alternates between black and orange, indicating whether the time on the dial is a.m. or p.m. It’s another thoughtful and clever touch that you could argue is not really necessary, but to me indicates just a level of thoughtfulness you don’t always get to see.

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A Complete Package

The Stratos UTC is available on Formex’s stainless steel bracelet or on a leather strap. Both are equipped with the company’s excellent tool-free micro-adjust systems. The bracelet’s clasp allows fine incremental sizing, while the strap features their ingenious sliding extension that’s built right into the deployant. I really appreciate that the case has a 20 mm lug width rather than 22, which they could have gone with given the size of this watch.

All told, the Stratos feels like Formex truly flexing its engineering skills. I will fully admit that the case design is not necessarily going to be a hit with everyone (although it certainly is with me). Paired with the layered finishing and this distinct design language, the result is a watch that genuinely earns the designation of “tool watch”. It is purposeful, tactile, and refined in execution.

Final Score: 8/10

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The Lorier Astra and the Neptune have something in common besides their manufacturer. They both have Hesalite crystals, which seems a bit anachronistic in this day and age, but that’s kind of the point. Lorier makes watches that are throwbacks to an older time, and I love them for it.

The crystals have this warm feel that enhances the nostalgic appeal of these watches. They warp and distort the view of the dial and hands at different angles and are domed beautifully. I love my Loriers enough to own at least four (Neptune, Gemini, and two Astras).

The downside? They scratch relatively easily, as my Astra and Neptune have proven to me a few times.

It’s not a hard fix. A tube of Polywatch and a cloth, and they can be restored to as good as new.

I just haven’t done it.

I have the Polywatch. I have the cloth. I just don’t have the need or desire.

Like my watches, I have my own set of scars and bruises, and I’m okay with that. As I’ve heard from more than one person, my own scars and bruises tell stories from my life. So it is with my watches. For the most part, I remember when I scuffed every crystal, scratched every case, and dented every clasp. There are very few marks I can’t account for, and at first they bothered me immensely.

They don’t anymore. I’ve had some conversations with people from the watch world who helped me see that pristine watches are objects waiting to have a life. Lorenzo Ortega, one half of the husband and wife team behind Lorier, even recounted a time when he took Polywatch to a Neptune he owned and then regretted it.

“I looked at it and was kinda sad,” he told me at a watch fair in Austin. “It’s pristine but it doesn’t tell a story anymore.”

Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, proprietor of Fears watches, had a similar approach. We both have the Fears Redcliff as a daily wear, and I was sad about a scratch I put on the bezel.

“Yes, but see, I have plenty of them too!” he said in his earnest British way. “It’s how you know the watch has been worn and loved. It tells your story.”

It didn’t escape me that both these folks said the same thing on the same day at the same watch show.

I stopped worrying about scratches and scuffs and bruises. My watches are like me. They are well worn, bruised, and battered, but still here.

I’ll refrain from making a joke about keeping on ticking…

Signing off…

INDUSTRY RECAP: The Last 30 Days in Independent Watchmaking

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 Delivers Record Turnout

The independent and microbrand watch community came together in spectacular fashion at the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025, held May 2-4 at the Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason.

A few things I missed: Christopher Ward's premiere of "Freewheelin'," their documentary about the innovative C12 Loco movement and the second annual Windup in a Bay expedition, which added an adventurous dimension to the weekend, with participants joining Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx for a campout at Elkhorn Ranch followed by open-water diving off the Carmel coast.

Independent Brands Outperform Major Players

The past month has been exceptionally promising for the independent and microbrand watch scene, with new research revealing a sector that continues to thrive despite broader market challenges. The release of The Independent Watchmaking Report 2025 has provided unprecedented insights into this dynamic segment of the horological world.

The Independent Watchmaking Report 2025, compiled by British watch journalist Chris Hall through his publication The Fourth Wheel, surveyed 81 independent watch brands across 14 countries. The findings paint a picture of an industry segment that not only survived the post-pandemic market cooling but actually flourished in many cases.

It isn't all roses and champagne, however. Despite the optimistic outlook, independent watchmakers face significant operational challenges that could impact their continued growth. The survey identified several key pressure points that brands must navigate in the coming years. I talked about supply chain issues in my Windup recap and the survey respondents concurred with that. 33% of respondents cited problems sourcing the right components. This challenge has been exacerbated by the broader industry slowdown, as Hall explains: "There is a lot of talk of supplier businesses in difficulty because their main clients — the major mainstream brands — are not ordering as much as usual. That has a knock-on effect on the smaller watchmakers who also rely on the same suppliers."

NEW RELEASES: Standout Watches from the Past Month

The past month has delivered an impressive array of new releases from independent and microbrand watchmakers, with a particular emphasis on accessible pricing that brings quality independent horology within reach of more collectors. From Swiss titanium field watches to American travel companions, the diversity of offerings demonstrates both the global reach and democratic spirit of independent watchmaking.

Affordable Titanium Excellence

Swiss independent brand Formex has delivered one of the month's most compelling releases with their updated Field Automatic Gen 2, launched on May 22, 2025. Priced at just $870 for the nylon strap version, this watch represents exceptional value in the titanium field watch segment.

The 40mm case is constructed from hardened Grade 2 titanium using Formex's proprietary hardening process, which increases surface hardness from 145 Vickers to an impressive 900 Vickers – nearly three times harder than standard Grade 5 titanium. This treatment provides exceptional durability while maintaining titanium's lightweight, hypoallergenic, and anti-magnetic properties.

The re-engineered dial features a sophisticated two-part construction with a flat sunburst-finished center surrounded by a sloped minute track, creating an appealing concave profile. New colorways include Ice Blue and Coho Salmon with blacked-out lume, plus Basalt Grey with BGW09 lume that glows white in daylight and blue at night.

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The sandwich-style dial design incorporates recessed stencil-cut numerals filled with Super-LumiNova Grade A, paired with a beveled, color-matched date window at 6 o'clock. The chapter ring and cardinal markers support legibility without visual clutter.

Powering the watch is the reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. The 150m water resistance and solid caseback maintain field watch standards while keeping costs reasonable.

Pre-orders opened on May 22 with shipping scheduled for late June 2025. The $995 leather strap option includes Formex's patented fine-adjustment deployant carbon clasp for tool-free micro-adjustments.

High-End Ceramic Innovation

And because one watch wasn't enough, Formex has also made waves this month with their most ambitious release to date: the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC, marking the Swiss brand's 25th anniversary and their first full-ceramic watch. This represents a significant departure from their typically accessible pricing, with the "GT" variant priced at CHF 4,150 (US4,390) and the "Stradale" variants at CHF 3,970 (US4,390).

Developed in collaboration with Dexel (there's a family connection here, btw), a specialist manufacturer with over 40 years of experience working with brands like Girard-Perregaux and Hublot, the Essence Ceramica features a complete zirconium oxide ceramic case and bracelet construction. The 41mm case measures 11.2mm thick with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug distance, maintaining the comfortable proportions of the standard Essence line.

The standout feature is Formex's first ceramic folding deployant clasp with a patented micro-adjustment system – reportedly the first ceramic clasp to offer this functionality. This innovation allows for precise fit adjustments even while wearing the watch, demonstrating Formex's expertise in clasp manufacturing (they also produce clasps for other brands).

I had a chance to get hands-on with this at Windup and without question, it is a stunner.

Travel-Ready Innovation

On May 5, 2025, American microbrand Trafford Watch Co. announced the Daytripper, a travel-oriented wristwatch priced around $799. The marquee feature is a quick-set hour hand, which allows for rapid local time adjustments—a function often reserved for traveler GMT models.

The Daytripper has a 39mm case, is 12.5mm thick, and is topped with a sapphire box crystal. Its dial incorporates both sunburst and radial brushing, giving it a textured effect. The watch uses polished indices that are treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light.

The watch is available in four color options, each named after a different American interstate highway: I-95, I-75, I-70, and I-40. The quick-set hour hand lets users change time zones without halting the movement or disrupting the minute hand.

Trafford is taking reservations for $99, with the remaining payment collected prior to shipping. The first batch is expected to ship in late summer 2025, and initial interest appears high. I had a chance to spend some time with this piece at Windup and honestly, it's really good value for the money. Nathan Trafford keeps knocking it out of the park.

Professional Tool Watches

The Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer GMT is a sub-$1,000 tool watch designed in Los Angeles, released in May 2025. Priced at $625, it was developed through a collaboration with an undisclosed government agency to offer features aimed at field operations.

Key specifications include:

• Case and Bezel: 38mm stainless steel case with a wider 42mm bezel, resulting in a 2mm overhang. This provides added protection for the crown and case, as well as improved grip on the 120-click unidirectional bezel.

• Water Resistance: Rated to 500 meters.

• Crystal and Lume: The watch has a blue-tinted anti-reflective sapphire crystal and both the dial and bezel markings are fully lumed.

• Movement and Complications: It runs on the Seiko NH34 automatic movement and features a caller-style GMT function. The GMT hand and the date (at 6 o'clock) can be set independently via the crown.

• Compass Feature: A compass bezel is included for basic navigation in the field. By aligning the hour hand with the sun, the wearer can use the bezel to find cardinal directions in the Northern Hemisphere.

• Configuration: The watch uses a "destro" (left-handed) layout with the crown at 9 o’clock, intended to reduce wrist interference and protect the crown.

• Dial Options: Available in navy and black. The initial batch sold out soon after launch.

While the styling and design choices clearly emphasize functionality, aesthetic considerations don't appear to be secondary. This is one good-looking watch and honestly, if they made a black DLC version with the blue dial, I'd have been throwing my credit card at the screen.

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Continuing Excellence from Established Independents

Serica 5303 PLD: The French independent brand Serica has created something pretty special with their collaboration with the EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) Divers of the French Navy. The 5303 PLD represents a really cool intersection of military requirements and civilian watchmaking excellence.

The watch maintains the familiar 39mm stainless steel case architecture of the standard 5303, with its 12.2mm thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug measurement ensuring comfortable wearability. However, the PLD variant incorporates several crucial modifications specifically requested by the French Navy's bomb disposal specialists.

The watch's magnetism resistance, indicated by the "amagnétique" text on the lower dial, was one of the French Navy's requested features, as, for EOD divers, any magnetic disturbance can potentially trigger explosives, making battery-powered watches extremely dangerous in operational environments. Serica's solution demonstrates how independent brands can adapt their designs to meet highly specialized professional requirements

The dark blue bezel insert features a unique "maximum dive time" scale rather than the traditional elapsed time markings. This specialized bezel allows divers to display the maximum allowed operation time for various depths, providing crucial safety information at a glance.

Priced at €1,690, the 5303 PLD EOD demonstrates how independent brands can create meaningful partnerships with professional users while maintaining the design integrity that defines their civilian collections.

Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition: Baltic's third year as official timekeepers for the Tour Auto has produced their most accomplished sports chronograph to date. The Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 represents a significant evolution of the brand's motorsport-inspired design language—but it's still recognizable as a Baltic.

The standout feature is the "Big Eye" sub-counter layout, a design element that emerged in 1970s motorsports chronographs to improve legibility during racing conditions. The enlarged minute sub-counter at 3 o'clock dominates the dial, while the running seconds occupy a smaller register at 9 o'clock.

A major technical upgrade comes in the form of screw-down pushers, which enable 100-meter water resistance—a substantial improvement over previous Scalegraph models. This enhancement makes the watch suitable for extreme conditions, reflecting Baltic's commitment to creating tools that can handle real-world use.

Priced at €1,750, the Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 represents exceptional value in the independent chronograph market.

Fears Arnos Pewter Blue: The English independent brand Fears has delivered one of the year's most striking releases with the Arnos Pewter Blue. Drawing inspiration from a rectangular 1920s-30s watch found in the brand's archives, the Arnos represents a masterful blend of historical reference and contemporary execution.

The rectangular case measures 22.6mm in diameter with a 40mm lug-to-lug and 8.4mm profile. The two-part dial construction creates visual drama through contrasting textures and finishes, with a central round blue galvanic time display featuring Roman numerals surrounded by a rhodium-plated hobnail pattern.

Priced at £4,350, the Arnos Pewter Blue represents the first release in what appears to be a new signature collection for the brand.

INSTAGRAM CREATOR SPOTLIGHT: @enthuseddad

This month, we're highlighting one of the most authentic and engaging voices in the watch community: @enthuseddad, run by Corey, a watch enthusiast from the Pacific Northwest who has built a dedicated following through his unique blend of family life and horological passion.

The Dad Who Discovered Watches Complain Less Than Kids

Corey's Instagram bio perfectly captures his approach to watch content: "Watch enthusiast who discovered his watches complain less than his kids when taking their pictures." This humorous yet relatable perspective sets @enthuseddad apart in a social media landscape often dominated by aspirational luxury content and pristine studio photography.

Based in the Pacific Northwest, Corey brings a refreshingly honest perspective to watch collecting and photography. His content demonstrates that serious watch enthusiasm doesn't require abandoning family responsibilities or pursuing only the most expensive timepieces. Instead, he shows how watches can integrate meaningfully into real life, from wearing a Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton to his son's track meets to sharing the story behind his 2007 engagement watch.

Storytelling Through Milestone Watches

@enthuseddad excels at connecting watches to personal narratives, transforming what could be simple product photography into meaningful storytelling. His collection includes several milestone pieces that illustrate how watches can mark important life transitions and achievements.

His engagement watch from 2007 served as his daily wear for six years, including through his wedding day. This Baume & Mercier Hampton XL, acquired for his five-year wedding anniversary, represents the kind of accessible luxury that many collectors can relate to. Rather than focusing on horological complications or investment potential, Corey emphasizes the emotional significance these pieces hold.

Photography Style and Authentic Content

Corey takes all his own photographs, maintaining creative control over how his watches are presented. His aesthetic prioritizes authenticity over perfection, often showing watches in natural settings that reflect their role in his daily life. This approach creates a more accessible and relatable form of watch content compared to the highly stylized photography that dominates much of Instagram. His images often capture the interplay between timepieces and their surroundings, whether that's a hiking trail, a family gathering, or a quiet moment at home.

Follow him at: @enthuseddad

LOOKING AHEAD: What's Next for Independent Watchmaking?

As we progress through 2025, several key trends are emerging that will likely shape the independent watch landscape in the months ahead. The combination of technological advancement, changing consumer preferences, and evolving market dynamics creates both opportunities and challenges for independent brands.

Accessibility and Value Leadership

The month's releases demonstrate a clear trend toward accessible pricing in the independent sector. With standout pieces like the Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer GMT at $625, the Formex Field Automatic Gen 2 at EUR 850, and the Trafford Daytripper at $799, independent brands are proving that innovative features and quality construction don't require luxury pricing.

This opens the hobby to new collectors while challenging the notion that serious horology requires significant financial investment. I expect this trend to continue as brands recognize the market opportunity in the sub-$1000 segment.

Event-Driven Community Building

The success of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 highlights the importance of in-person events for the independent watch community. These gatherings provide crucial opportunities for brands to connect directly with customers, and for collectors to experience watches hands-on

I anticipate continued growth in regional watch fairs and brand-specific events as the community seeks authentic experiences beyond digital marketing. The integration of adventure activities, like Windup's camping and diving expeditions, shows how events can extend beyond traditional retail formats.

Functional Innovation at Accessible Prices

The month's releases showcase how independent brands are bringing traditionally expensive complications to accessible price points. Trafford's quick-set hour hand, Nodus's caller GMT, and Formex's hardened titanium construction demonstrate that innovation doesn't have to be a stranger to affordability.

This trend toward functional accessibility will likely accelerate as brands compete on value rather than exclusivity, ultimately benefiting collectors who seek practical features without premium pricing.

Stay tuned for our June edition, where we'll continue tracking these developments and highlighting the most exciting new releases from the world of independent watchmaking.

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Hmm? Oh. Right. Windup.

Windup SF is now held at the fantastic Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason, and it’s a perfect venue. Bright, airy, with loads of parking (except on Sundays, when there’s a farmer’s market), and enough room for people to walk around without getting pushed and shoved.

I was there all three days—though I ducked out early Saturday to catch up on sleep after staying up until 5:30 a.m. Why? Stick around. I’ll show you.

The line to get in Saturday morning stretched down the waterfront. Just another sign the watch world is alive and well—and I’m incredibly glad for that.

Inside, most booths were packed and some, like Christopher Ward (one of the Lead sponsors), had a crowd four or five people deep.

People

These days, Windup is just as much about the people as it is the watches. Here are some of the folks I always love running into.

I make it a point to come early—during press hours—to say hi to the CW crew. Will, Mike, Olivia, and Patrick (clockwise from top-left) are some of my favorite people in the watch world.

Fair disclosure: the picture of Will Brackfield (top-left) is from last year. I had a card corruption and my pic of him from the show was on the bad card.

The Brew Watches table was busy, and I had to duck and weave to get a shot of founder Jonathan Ferrer.

Bespoke Watch Projects, from my home base in the Bay Area (specifically Oakland), also drew a solid crowd. Founder John Beck McConnico has been at just about every Windup I’ve attended since 2022.

This year, Bay Area watch retail mainstay Topper Jewelers co-sponsored two tables: Doxa and Fears. Both brands have long-standing relationships with the shop. Rob Caplan, one of Topper’s owners, played host—strategically perched between the two tables and able to bounce back and forth with ease.

Side note: If you’re not following Topper, you should. Their Pre-Owned Select section regularly features indie and microbrand watches you won’t find elsewhere.

It wasn’t my first time meeting Nicola Callegaro, co-founder of echo/neutra, but it was the first time we got to talk at length. I may or may not have bought a particular tank-esque timepiece...

It’s always a pleasure seeing Marc from Long Island Watch. I first met him at Windup New York about three years ago. Since then, I’ve run into him at every Windup I’ve attended.

Nathan from Trafford Watches might be the person I’ve seen most at these shows—this is my fourth watch show in six months, and he’s been at all of them.

And last—but absolutely, positively not least—my guys from Formex. Co-founders Raphael and Markus have been fixtures at the show for as long as I can remember. Markus, based in the Bay Area, shows up at most local events. Raphael, based in Biel, is a rarer sight this side of the Atlantic, so it’s always great when he makes the trip.

Watches

Let’s not kid ourselves: the star of the show was the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. The first production batch of 750 (not a limited edition—just the initial release) sold out in days. The next drop is expected this fall. I was lucky enough to take one home and shoot it overnight. That’s why I was up until 5:30 a.m. and completely loopy the next day.

I spent way too much time ogling this watch—and even more time digging through couch cushions for spare change. It’s a remarkable piece, more proof of CW’s growing watchmaking chops.

Of course, there were plenty of other watches worth noting:

• The echo/neutra Rivanera caught my eye. Indies and micros are getting bolder—not just with movements, but with case shapes and dial design too.

  

• The Rosenbusch Horizon in Urban Blue, made in Germany, changes character depending on the light. Indoors vs. sunlight? Totally different vibes—and I’m into it.

  

• Lōcī Watch Company (a newcomer to Windup, I think) is based right here in California. Their Pacific Coast Highway series includes thoughtful little touches—like the Monterey Bay dial with embossed waves and diving-board-style indices.

  

  

• Nalla Neeram showed a Swiss-made chronograph, the Kaalam Minutes Timer that really stood out. It features minute markers in twin tracks around the dial, making it fast and intuitive to read the time and chrono. More of this, please!![DSCF0517]

  

And finally, a watch I’d previously bought but picked up at the show: the Formex Essence with a blue agate dial. I snapped a shot a few days after the show when the sunlight hit it just right.

Takeaways and Final Words

Windup—and shows like it—aren’t just a place to see the newest models from a few dozen brands. They’re also where you meet the people behind those brands. And when you talk to those folks, you learn some interesting things.

Take these with a grain of salt—I haven’t verified them—but here’s what I heard:

1. Tariffs are hitting brands. One company got slapped with a $300 tariff on a $100 watch strap. But if the strap was attached to a watch? No additional tariff. It was classified as part of the Swiss watch and exempt from the higher rate.

2. Customs delays are real. One watchmaker waited 45 days for imported straps to clear U.S. customs. So if something is late, have a little patience—not everything is within the watchmaker’s control.

3. Movement sourcing is getting tricky. Three different people mentioned longer lead times from Sellita. It’s not customs or tariffs—just demand. That’s opening doors for movement makers like La Joux-Perret and Soprod, who are more willing to work on decoration and customization. Sellita, unless you’re ordering in high volume or going for élaboré-grade, just isn’t always as flexible.

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I love learning about stuff like this. It’s why I write this newsletter. Mechanical watches are an art form and talking to watchmakers at Windup lets me talk to the artists themselves.

Events like this remind me that in a world moving faster and getting more digital by the minute, there’s still real magic in mechanical craft—and in face-to-face conversations.

Here’s to the makers, the collectors, and everyone who keeps the love of horology ticking.

It’s 22:47 US Pacific Time, 01:47 US Eastern Time. Signing off...

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The past month has been exceptionally busy for the independent and microbrand watch scene, with two major events showcasing indies and micros from all over the world and a bunch of releases from some of our favorite makers.

Christopher Ward Releases a Monumental Piece

The Christopher Ward Twelve has become a major pillar of CW's offerings and they haven't wasted any time improving it and making variations on its theme. These aren't rehashes though - each one has been unique on its own. The latest is the C12 'Loco', a piece that I'm lusting after so bad, I'm considering selling a few things from my collection to make room for it. It's immediately evocative of watches many times its $4500 asking price and is yet another step in CW's journey as it evolves into a high-complication watchmaker—without sacrificing its roots.

The C12 Loco is already sold out, but get on the waitlist for the second drop later this year.

Traska Plans a Second Drop of a Sold-Out Watch

Speaking of being sold out, Traska's meteorite dial Venturer GMT sold out in about two minutes of hitting the site. Since it was a limited edition, they aren't going to release a new run of the same, but there is a silver lining in dark anthracite to this cloud: a new version of the meteorite dial goes on sale in a few days (May 4, to be specific) for a 14-hour reservation window. So, if you missed out on the first, you can still grab this amazing deal of a watch for $975.

District Time 2025 Draws Record Crowds

The District Time watch show in Washington, D.C., organized by The Time Bum blog and co-sponsored by McDowell Time, has established itself as a premier event for microbrand enthusiasts. This year's edition featured over 50 brands and attracted wall-to-wall crowds throughout its two-day run. Perhaps most telling was the queue for Christopher Ward, which extended halfway through the exhibition hall – something I've gotten used to seeing at their tables at every show I've been to.

Geneva Watch Week Spotlights Independent Innovation

Running parallel to the behemoth Watches & Wonders event at Palexpo, independent watchmakers gathered at Villa Sarasin for the Time To Watches exhibition. This strategic positioning – cheekily close to the main halls – speaks to the growing confidence of independent brands as they continue to challenge traditional luxury watchmaking. More of this please.

Key Industry Trends

Several clear trends have emerged across the independent watch landscape:

1. Size Diversification: Brands are increasingly offering multiple case sizes to appeal to a broader audience. Marathon's expansion of their OSAR-D collection to include both 36mm and 46mm options exemplifies this approach, as does the general trend toward more wearable sub-40mm cases.

2. Material Innovation: From Formex's first all-ceramic watch to Louis Erard's collaboration with GoS featuring Damascus steel, independent brands continue to push boundaries with materials that distinguish them from mainstream offerings.

3. Vintage Inspiration with Modern Execution: Brands like Baltic, echo/neutra, and Depancel continue to draw from horological history while incorporating contemporary engineering and design elements. echo/neutra is particularly calling out to me with some of their chronos.

4. Direct-to-Consumer Focus: The direct relationship between brands and enthusiasts remains central to the microbrand ethos, with community events like District Time growing in importance as physical manifestations of these connections. Coming up this weekend is WIndup Watch Fair SF. If you haven't yet made plans, do so!

5. Geographic Diversity: French brands (Baltic, Depancel, Awake), Scandinavian watchmakers (Maen, GoS), and North American companies (Marathon, Nodus) are all making significant contributions to the global independent scene.

NEW RELEASES: Standout Watches from the Past Month

Zelos Expands with Multiple New Collections

Singapore-based Zelos Watches has been exceptionally active this month with several significant releases:

Zelos Mako 2025 Update – The brand's popular 40mm diver has received substantial refinements for 2025, including an improved bezel click mechanism, female endlinks for better fit on smaller wrists, and sapphire bezel options. New colorways include the striking "Falcon's Eye" with deep blue mineral crystal dial, returning Meteorite dials paired with bright blue Superluminova, a summery blue-to-white fade "Lagoon" model with purple accents, and a white and orange Cerakote "Solar Flare" variant.

Zelos Mako 'True' GMT – An all-new GMT version featuring the Miyota 9075 movement with independent hour hand adjustment, allowing for true traveler's GMT functionality. The bi-directional ceramic bezel and eye-catching dial materials make this a compelling option for globe-trotters. Most are sold out but there are a couple of colorways left.

Zelos GT Collection – Launched on March 31st, this automotive-inspired collection draws design cues from the legendary Lamborghini Miura. The flowing case curves mimic the car's profile, while the bracelet design references the Miura's louvered engine cover. Dials are inspired by vintage tachometers, with a power reserve indicator cleverly integrated as a fuel gauge. Available in various colorways inspired by iconic racing liveries and classic automotive paint schemes, including special forged carbon editions. Launch pricing starts at $399, with regular pricing at $499 after April 30th. It’s totally sold out and I’m glad I got one in before it did!

Dive Watches

Doxa Sub 250T GMT – Doxa has finally answered the calls for a GMT model, releasing their first travel watch since 2006. The Sub 250T GMT comes in a wearable 40mm case with 18 different references, addressing the market demand for smaller sports watches with travel functionality.

Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze – The French brand continues to impress with this 37mm daily driver featuring smoked gradient dials, substantial lume blocks as hour markers, 150m water resistance, and a Miyota 9039 movement. The bronze case adds a distinctive touch to Baltic's already impressive lineup.

Formex Ceramica Skeleton COSC GT – Formex's first all-ceramic piece combines scratch resistance (seven times harder than steel) with a COSC-certified movement and an open-worked dial featuring gold details. At just 137 grams including the ceramic bracelet, it's remarkably light for such a robust watch.

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Chronographs

echo/neutra 1956 White Chronograph – This newly announced manually-wound chronograph features a creamy white dial with black handset and red accents. The 40mm stainless steel case houses a Sellita SW510M elaboré caliber, offering 100m water resistance and a telemeter scale bezel.

Depancel Série-R – Taking inspiration from the vintage Delage D8 Aera Coupe, this race-inspired chronograph features a twin-level blue sunburst dial in a svelte 36mm case. Powered by the Miyota 9120 movement, it combines dashboard design elements with practical calendar functionality.

Field & Tool Watches

Marathon OSAR-D Collection Expansion – The Canadian tool watch specialists have expanded their OSAR-D collection to include both Explorer-sized 36mm models and robust 46mm versions. New white dial options suited for Arctic conditions round out the collection.

Draken Aoraki – This 39mm field watch from the New Zealand brand features a Miyota movement, 100m water resistance, and an impressive antimagnetic rating of 20,000A/m achieved through Faraday cage construction. Available with four different dial configurations and shipping with both nylon and leather bund straps.

RZE Endeavour – A field watch with titanium case and bracelet featuring ULTRAHex coating for scratch resistance, making it an ideal choice for adventurous watch enthusiasts.

Haute Horlogerie

Ming 21.01 "Project 21" in Tantalum – This exceptional new release from Ming showcases the rare and challenging-to-machine tantalum metal in a 35mm case measuring just 6.9mm thick. The watch houses a vintage Frederic Piguet 21 movement (just 1.75mm thick) that has been extensively reworked with a titanium skeletonized bridge, chatons, anglage, and sablage. The dial features a multilayered strake pattern with a 5N rose gold coating on the standard version (limited to 15 pieces) or blue CVD coating on the Souscription version (limited to 10 pieces). Priced at CHF 32,500, this represents Ming's most exclusive offering to date.

Kurono Tokyo 34mm Special Project STAR DIAL – Released in March 2025, this new model from Hajime Asaoka's accessible brand is an adaptation of his Tsunami 'As Time Goes By' atelier watch. The 34mm case houses a dial featuring high-polished steel applied 'star' indices paired with a unique Art Deco font meticulously designed by Asaoka himself. Available in salmon pink and blue dial variants, this watch exemplifies the growing trend toward vintage-inspired designs in smaller case sizes.

Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino – This tonneau-shaped sports watch features a titanium automatic tourbillon movement measuring just 3.85mm thick and weighing only 8 grams. Despite its refined profile, it offers 5000G shock resistance and 5ATM depth rating.

Krayon Anyday – Featuring a new 378-part movement that continuously displays each day and date for the entire month, with a five-week span visible at a glance. Working days appear in dark blue, weekends in light grey, creating a novel approach to the calendar complication.

Breva Segreto Di Lario – Limited to 25 pieces in 18K red gold cushion cases, this watch features a new calibre created by Jean-François Mojon based on the Chronode C101. Dual barrels offer a seven-day power reserve, indicated by a twin retrograde display.

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Collaborations

Louis Erard x GoS Regulator – This collaboration showcases GoS's expertise in Damascus steel with a twirling vortex shape for the seconds at six o'clock. The braided salmon leather strap reflects the Swedish brand's Scandinavian roots.

Maen x Nico Leonard – YouTube star Nico Leonard's first watch collaboration is a modern take on the vintage jump hour concept in a 34mm case with 1.7mm thickness, paired with a Hublot-inspired FKM rubber strap.

Nodus/Raven Canyon Green Dial – A collaboration with Matt Farah of The Smoking Tire featuring a 41mm case, green-to-black gradient dial, and La Joux-Perret G101 movement with 68-hour power reserve.

Budget-Friendly Options

Farr and Swit Retro Digital Mix Tape Vol. 1 B Sides – These fun digital watches feature translucent cases in vibrant candy colors with reverse negative LCD displays, all for just $34.99.

Brew Watch Co. Metric Chronograph – This New York-based independent brand offers stylish chronographs inspired by coffee culture. The Metric series features distinctive retro-modern aesthetics with meca-quartz movements in a variety of colorways, priced at $475 – delivering exceptional value from a true microbrand.

INSTAGRAM CREATOR SPOTLIGHT: @talkingabouttime

This month, we're shining a spotlight on one of the most engaging and authentic voices in the watch community: @talkingabouttime. Run by Stephen Nichols, who describes himself as a "Watch, dad joke and unfunny pun enthusiast with a camera," this account has built a following of approximately 13,000 dedicated watch enthusiasts.

Fair disclosure: Stephen is a friend. We’ve met up multiple times in New York and Austin for various shows and the man is a gregarious, welcoming, friendly guy who now calls me Indies. I mean… 😂

What sets Stephen apart is the perfect blend of technical knowledge, creative photography, and genuine personality. His approach combines serious horological appreciation with a refreshing sense of humor, making fine watchmaking more accessible and enjoyable for enthusiasts at all levels.

The account features a diverse range of timepieces with particular attention to independent and microbrand watches. Through his #watchfamappreciation series, Stephen regularly highlights other creators in the watch community, fostering a collaborative spirit that elevates the entire independent watch scene.

His photography style captures watches in their natural habitat – sometimes in carefully composed still lifes, other times in everyday settings that show how these pieces integrate into real life. This practical approach helps followers understand not just how a watch looks in promotional images, but how it might appear on their own wrist.

Beyond aesthetics, @talkingabouttime provides thoughtful commentary on the watches he features, often discussing the stories behind independent brands and what makes their approaches unique. This narrative-driven content helps smaller watchmakers connect with potential customers on a more personal level.

In an Instagram landscape that can sometimes feel overly commercialized, @talkingabouttime maintains an authentic voice that resonates with true watch enthusiasts. His genuine passion for horology and support of independent watchmaking makes this account a must-follow for anyone interested in the creative side of the watch industry.

Follow him at: instagram.com/talkingabouttime

LOOKING AHEAD: What's Next for Independent Watchmaking?

As we move further into 2025, several trends appear poised to shape the independent watch landscape:

1. Sustainability Focus: Expect more brands to follow Awake's lead in emphasizing eco-conscious materials and production methods.

2. Complications at Accessible Price Points: Independent brands will continue to democratize complications previously reserved for luxury watches.

3. Increased Collaboration: Partnerships between microbrands and influencers, artists, and other creative professionals will likely proliferate.

4. Direct-to-Consumer Evolution: As successful microbrands grow, they'll need to balance scaling operations while maintaining the direct customer relationships that helped build their success.

5. Material Innovation: The search for distinctive, durable, and sustainable materials will drive further experimentation beyond traditional watchmaking metals.

Stay tuned for our May edition, where we'll continue to track these developments and spotlight the most exciting new releases from the world of independent watchmaking!

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The cool part is that all of these things are a net positive for I&M and I'm nervous and excited for this. What have I been working on? Here's a peek...

More Data

I've been maintaining a database of watches for some time now and for a while I was aiming to have a database of every single watch from every single brand I followed.

This was, in retrospective, overly ambitious. Instead, I'm going to go for something that makes a whole lot of sense: watches that I've actually touched and, at the very least, appreciated. Call it a sort of "hands-on verified" that the watch exists and is actually worth your time to check out.

The other thing I haven't done is buying recommendations. Part of this database is going to be just that - recommendations of what to buy based on a variety of criteria, from color to movement to materials. Every watch on this list will be one that I've handled, not just a press release. That means the latest watches won't always be on it, but you'll know that I won't be talking fluff about a watch I've never laid hands on.

Finally, I'm going to be doing a monthly roundup newsletter. While I won't chase every single press release with a newsletter, doing a monthly roundup should help at least keep my audience (all three of them) up to speed on a periodic basis.

The next monthly roundup newsletter is coming out tomorrow, Wednesday, April 30 as a fast follow to this one.

One More Thing...

If you haven't been aware, this week is Windup San Francisco in its new (as of last year) and hopefully permanent location, Fort Mason in San Francisco. I cannot recommend enough that you visit if you're able.

Until next time...

In terms of the sheer number of vendors exhibiting at the fair, that tagline seems to be legit. There were 110 watch vendors in attendance, plus another thirty or so related brands. Windup has been emphasizing the EDC (Every Day Carry) component of the fair and this year was its biggest, with bag and accessory maker Nomatic as the marquee sponsor. Nomatic was, in fact, the very first exhibitor on the left as you walked into the building and the entryway was basically all EDC.

The big shows in Europe - Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Days) draw between 50 and 60 watchmakers, so at 110, Windup NYC pretty-much blew all of them out of the water.

Moreover, even with three full days - plus an extra hour on Saturday and Sunday for the press before the doors opened - I STILL didn’t have enough time to see everything I wanted to. I missed a few good ones, too: the echo/neutra Rivanera, for one, and the Buci x Seconde/Seconde for another. Buci actually had two pieces of this limited edition for sale at Windup, which I’m bummed about missing.

This was easily the most intense Windup I’ve ever been to and a lot of great things came out of it for me.

Here are the key standouts.

Christopher Ward and the Bel Canto Classic

Now that the embargo is lifted, I can talk about this! The Chris Ward Bel Canto Classic is a really nice update to the original, featuring a machined guilloche platine, darkened handset, and roman numerals on the dial. It's available in four colors, including one that harkens back to the original Azzuro blue Bel Canto. I went hands-on with the green version on a bracelet at Windup and it was just stunning - and I am not a green dial kinda guy.

This is Act II for the Bel Canto and, given the demand there is for this piece, I can't say I'm surprised that CW are continuing to iterate on it. I hope they continue to do this; they've democratized high horology for the masses with this amazing piece and we need more of that.

I also spent some more time with the Trident GMT. The white dial version on a Consort bracelet is such a refined iteration of the Trident lineup that I'm having a hard time resisting its allure. In fact, I'm pretty sure that if Will Brackfield, one of CW's designers, had been at Windup, I'd have gone home with my wallet roughly $1500 lighter.

Formex goes big and bold

The Stratos UTC is one of those watches that you really need to sit with for a minute. At first glance, it's a beefy tool watch with more hands and buttons that it apparently needs. Its sharp angles, multiple facets, and overall construction evoked images of the F-117A Nighthawk aircraft and its name - Stratos - certainly has an aeronautical sound to it.

But then, when you sit with it, you start to see the refinements you'd associate with any Formex watch. The mixture of polished and brushed and sandblasted surfaces. The smart use of colors for maximum contrast. The handset's partial skeletonization. That clever little orange dot that goes black when it's nighttime. The subdial that implements the date complication. They all come together in a watch that is more than meets the eye (sorry Transformers™).

I borrowed two Stratos pieces overnight and spent a long time trying to shoot them in a way that did justice to them. I think I was able to.

Meeting the folks behind Trafford

I’m surprised I neglected to get a photo of Nathan from Trafford; I’ve been conversing with him for a year and own the Crossroads they put out last year. I got to shoot the Touring GMT in my hotel room mini-studio, which I enjoyed very much despite the fact that I had to crawl into my bed from the bottom because it was so cramped. Still, well worth it; I enjoyed the process and have some good ideas for what I need to take with me next time.

The Touring GMT is a beaut. Its use of color does remind me a bit of the flair Farer brings to their timepieces, but with a uniquely Trafford touch. There’s a particularly nice touch with the second and minute hands - they curve downward ever so slightly to make room for the double-domed sapphire crystal.

My favorite is the Saxon colorway and I’ll have a “Fast Look” piece up about that soon.

Also meeting Jon Mack from Traska

Another person I’ve conversed with over IG DMs is Jon Mack, founder and owner of Traska Watches. I'm an avid Traska owner (at last count, I have 6 of their watches) and I've been hoping to see Jon at one of these events for a while now. So it was great to catch up with him at Windup, where I got to pick his brain a bit and tease a few details on some upcoming projects (my lips are sealed... for now).

One of the items that caught my eye was the green colorway of the Freediver, a watch I own in black. The new bezel action on the latest iteration of the Freediver is absolutely fantastic, with firm, clean, clicks and bang-on accuracy. I'm not much of a green dial guy, but this one caught my attention so much, I borrowed it overnight for a quick shoot.

This… was not an easy shoot.

The French are coming

Sunday at Windup saw a panel dedicated to French horology, with principals from Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, and Awake on the panel. I've been a Baltic owner and fan for a while now and while I don't own any pieces for the other two, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver is on my "want!" list.

But at this show, it was the BeauBleu Seconde Française that caught my eye. This thing is gorgeous; a limited-edition piece with a French movement and these whimsical yet somehow still precise circular minute, hour, and second hands. I fell in love immediately, going back every day to their table and finally buying it on the last day of the show. I cannot wait to take delivery in December.

Farer keeps the hits coming

I have a thing for pointer-date complications. So far, Oris has been the only one making any cool watches with that complication, but here comes Farer with the Field collection. Their use of color is probably one of the best in the industry and in the Field series, it's understated yet obvious. On the date track running around the outside of the dial, the 28, 29, 30, and 31 are a different color (ostensibly to remind you that those dates don't necessarily apply to all months). The end of the date pointer has a bright contrasting red or orange to stand out and the textured dials are easy to read.

I've been chatting with James Mulvale from Farer for the last couple of fairs and have appreciated the horological weight he's brought to the company. I think Farer are underrated and their watches deserve a better look than they have been getting.

I have a new favorite Oris

Oris introduced the Diver Date right before the show and had it in the metal at their table.

The first thing you should know is that my picture of it doesn't do it justice at all. The lighting at these events is not great.

The second thing you should know is that whether it's on the bracelet or the rubber strap, the Diver Date is absolutely gorgeous. I can't put my finger on it but this is my favorite Oris piece. No, I'm not running to go buy one just yet - it's a whopping $2700 - but I will keep an eye out at Topper's Pre-Owned page to see if one shows up.

It's such a simple piece and so freaking elegant, it's hard to actually put my finger on why I'm so enthralled with it. Oris is one of my favorite brands - my personal Upcycle is a gorgeous, gorgeous piece - and I cannot wait to get more hands-on with the Diver Date.

Fears is still knocking things out of the park

Fears owner Nicholas Bowman-Scargill and I have something in common - we both love the Redcliff in Pewter Gray as a daily wear watch. I kept bugging my local AD, Topper, for an ETA on the display caseback version and they, in turn, kept bugging Nicholas & Co. and in July, I finally got my display caseback.

I could not be happier with this piece and seeing Nicholas pull up his sleeve to show me that he was wearing his own well-worn Redcliff was confirmation that whatever hold this watch has on my imagination, it's justified.

There's a lot more than can be summed up in a single newsletter but this is a good roundup. Note one thing - I've spent as much time - if not more - talking about people as I have about watches. That's the beauty of the independent/microbrand world - you actually get to know the people and faces behind the brands you buy.

In a few days, I head out to Austin for a double-header; Minutes and Hours is happening this weekend, as is Intersect. I'm also attending a breakfast hosted by Bremont, a brand I've got a lot of interest in. I expect to catch up with friends there, eat some BBQ, and spend a lot of time soaking in horology.

It's 2103 Pacific, 0003 Eastern as I finish writing this. Signing off...

Why New York? Because Windup, of course!

The New York edition of Windup is one I have managed to make it to every year for the last three. This year the venue is different and I’m keeping my fingers crossed for good light. I think Windup is missing an opportunity here: set up a shooting station for photographers with platform-neutral strobes and charge a fee. Even better, set up a closed conference room for those who want to record podcasts or video interviews. With so many outstanding watch companies in attendance, opportunities for making content abound. 

This year’s NYC Windup has the most brands in attendance I’ve seen in any Windup so far. I’m looking forward to seeing some familiar faces but I’m also looking forward to meeting with the people behind brands I haven’t yet spoken to. 

The familiar faces

So, who am I looking forward to seeing and meeting with? Let’s start with the familiar faces.

Christopher Ward

Patrick, Will, Mike, and the rest of the crew from CW are going to be there and I will, once again, try and bribe someone to get my Twelve X early. I will fail, but maybe not? 

This year I’m hoping Jorg Bader Sr. is around for a bit of a chat. I enjoyed catching up with him when I visited the CW atelier in Biel this past August and would love to do so again. Ditto for Jorg Jr. 

Will Brackfield will cost me more money, most likely. Again. I do have my eye on that Trident GMT. What a beauty!

Mostly I want to see that Twelve X again and see what other things CW are cooking.

Formex

Formex’s atelier (also in Biel) was the other one I visited while in Switzerland. Newsletters for both visits are pending and I’ll be sending them out after the Windup wrap ups are done. I’m looking forward to catching up with Markus and Raphael and seeing the new Stratos UTC. Like my Reef GMT, it’s a solid block of a watch with tool vibes from here till next year. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on a production piece. 

Formex is also one of the more interesting brands for me; their association with Dexel and that company’s manufacturing prowess making it one of the most vertically integrated indie/microbrand I am aware of in its class. I’m excited to see what else they bring to the market. 

Lorier

Husband and wife Lorenzo and Lauren are NY-based, so this is a no-brainer for them to attend. I also have a bone to pick with them; they keep costing me WAY too much money. I just picked up the special-edition Astra they released with Worn and Wound and, well, enough already folks. 

Still, they are one of my favorite brands. Their aesthetic is so uniquely theirs, you can spot a Lorier from across the room. This time, I have questions about hesalite crystals - which they are absolute wizards with. 

Farer

A monopusher GMT Chronograph? Makes me want to throw my poor worn-out credit card at the screen. James from Farer is a great chat; we spent a solid 20 minutes, I think, when I saw him last at Intersection Los Angeles. 

I want to dive deeper into Farer; they really are one of the most underrated brands out there. Their movement decorations are some of the best I’ve seen in this space and I absolutely love their cushion case series. I own the Stanhope III and it’s one that constantly gets attention and questions. 

This time they have what looks like a pointer date piece coming out on the day before the show and I cannot wait to see it in person if they have it at Windup. 

Fears

The British brands are strong and Fears is just knocking it out of the park lately. I picked up my Redcliff recently and got one of the first exhibition casebacks in the US (sorry for the all the whinging, all!). There’s a used Topper/Fears collab I really want that is in one of the groups I’m in but dangit, the Redcliff sucked all the air out of my watch budget for this year. 

Still, I plan on going over and photographing the always dapper Nicholas Bowman-Scargill and peppering him with questions about the Garrick collab, his work with Topper, and more.

Studio Underd0g

Hate them (I don’t) or love them (I do), the one thing you can’t do is ignore them. I have SO many questions for Richard, SU’s founder and owner. Like “How dare you make yet another piece I want?” and “why did you make a collab with Moser that I can’t ever afford?” and “Can I please have one anyway?” 

The new (to me) faces

These brands aren’t new to anyone (or me) and with at least two of them, I’ve already conversed with their owners. I’ve never met them face-to-face, and that’s the beauty of Windup. I finally get to meet...

Traska

Jon Mack was one of the first people to send me a watch to review for the newsletter. The Traska Freediver was so good, I ended up buying one. Not only that, I think I now own one of each model Traska makes and am looking forward to meeting Jon in person. 

Trafford

I love my Season One Crossroads in the Mockingbird colorway. Nathan and I have chatted over IG DMs and he’s definitely getting my hard-earned dollars with the upcoming Touring GMT. I’m looking forward to picking his brains a bit too.

Maen

I’ve met some of the folks from Maen in passing, but plan on spending some time at their table and chatting with them as well. I own two of Maen’s pieces: the Manhattan 37 and the Hudson GMT, so it’s kind of apt that I’ll be looking for them in New York. 

Garrick

Garrick is one of those watchmakers that I have known about for a very short while. I first became aware of them through their collaboration with Fears and then started perusing their offerings. This British company hand-makes a small number of watches every year and their S6 is one that I’m super interested in. At $8300 for the frosted dial/exhibition caseback version, it’s out of my current price range, but someday soon, I hope it won’t be. I’m eager to meet with them and get to know this brand. 

Delugs

Delugs have been all over my Instagram feed and that’s not surprising. They make some truly remarkable straps and I expect to be a few dollars poorer after hitting their table. That bracelet removing tool they make looks very interesting, but it’s their CTS (cut to size) strap with the deployant clasp I’m super interested in.

So much more to come...

I started writing this at the airport in San Francisco and am finishing it in my hotel in Manhattan. I can just see the building housing Center415, where the show is as the sun comes up over this amazing city I love so much. I’m going to get my gear set up, make a quick trip over to the Peak Design store to replace my lost Capture Clip and then hightail over to the hall. 

I’ll be posting stories on Instagram, so feel free to follow me there at @indiesandmicros for ongoing stuff. 

It’s 0520 US Pacific Time, 0820 US Eastern Time. Signing off...

PS: I’m trying out a new signoff tagline. Don’t hate me.

I had a lot of ideas. 

Going to Switzerland for the first time, I wanted to do a lot, see a lot, and maybe score a couple of visits to brands I happen to respect a lot. I wanted to see the Patek museum, hit the Cité du Temps in Biel (HQ to the Swatch group and the home of the Omega museum), swing by the MB&F gallery, do an Oris factory visit, and find time to roam the streets of Geneva and Zurich.

Oh, and spend a week in Lake Como while I was at it.

To my shock, I was actually able to do most of all of that. I didn’t get a chance to visit the Furlan Marri showroom in Geneva and I wasn’t able to score a visit to the Oris factory in Hölstein but those were about the only things I think I had on my itinerary that I missed. After all, with travel, the break at Lake Como, and bouncing from one city to another, there were maybe three or four days in which I could accomplish all of those objectives. 

I’m in love with Zurich. Geneva is nice, but really, you gotta stick to the Old Town area. Exploring the alleys and byways around the Vieille Ville - and especially around the Grande-Rue is stepping into a completely different world. 

But it was Zurich that stole my heart. We stayed in the Niederdorf district and it was... sublime. Zurich itself is sublime; there’s no other way to describe it. Even at the peak of summer, it’s a city that manages to keep its cool. Geneva may be where watch-lovers flock to, but Zurich is where I left my heart.

Also, it was in Zurich that I had the best Chicken Tikka Kabab I’ve had since I left India more than 30 years ago. Go figure.

But enough about Zurich. Let’s talk about watch stuff. 

You’ve seen this building in my last newsletter.

It’s an unassuming building in Biel, Switzerland. Inside it is a manufacturing facility with rows upon rows of CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines in a neat, orderly fashion. Bars of solid metal like stainless steel and grade 2 titanium are fed into one end. Out of the other end come small parts like cases, bracelet links, bezels, and more. It’s a marvel of engineering that’s a far cry from the hand-operated tools and small analog machines you associate with Swiss watchmaking. 

This is modern Swiss watchmaking, and I am here for it. It also is the the pathway to a problem that was well-articulated by a recent Hodinkie article on the M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S.

Loving watches is a democratic thing. Anyone can love watches. Owning watches is inherently the opposite.

On the same floor of building are the offices of a brand I’m sure many readers of this newsletter are familiar with: Formex. Here’s an interesting tidbit: the co-owner and CEO of Formex - Raphael Granito - is the son of the founder of Dexel. His personal office has two doors; one leads into the Formex atelier and offices, while the other leads into the Dexel side of the floor.

Most of the parts that go into Formex watches like the Reef and the Essence are manufactured on the floor below, in the Dexel factory. The relationship is not accidental; it’s a case of surprising vertical integration in an industry that is known more for not being all that vertical. As I realized in my conversation with James Mulvale from Farer a while back, the watchmaking industry in Switzerland is “a geographically spread-out assembly line that stretches across maybe a hundred or more miles..”

It’s also a demonstration of interconnectedness. The Swiss watchmaking world may seem insular to some, but even a casual glance under the hood shows that there’s a serious amount of interconnectedness. Look at Dexel’s website and you’ll see the logo of at least one company they make parts for that goes back to the 19th century. 

Another example: I was doing some research on Parmigiani Fleurier, the Swiss company whose watches (apart from being out of my price range) have found their way onto the wrists of kings and magnates. Even this venerated (if not old) Swiss brand operates in a web of interconnected companies and relationships.

I’ll have more on Formex (and another atelier I was fortunate enough to visit) in a future article. For now, let me say this: There are nuances to the world of Swiss watchmaking that I hadn’t quite grasped. This trip helped open my eyes to a lot of those nuances. The insularity is there, yes, but my particular corner of the world (independent and microbrands) is peeling that insularity back. What’s below is delightful and exciting and just plain fun.

Watch for Part 2 of this series and the deeper dives into the ateliers of Formex and Christopher Ward in the coming weeks.

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Good evening. It's 16:04 on the outskirts of Geneva as I write this.

Swiss trains are awesome. Get yourself a multiday EURail pass (they are NOT cheap, so be forewarned) and use it to get from one city to another. It's the best.

Right now I'm on my way back to Geneva from Biel, where are I just had a fantastic afternoon at the headquarters of microbrand darling Formex.

It... was not what I expected.

There's a whole piece on Formex coming. I have SO much to say about these folks but the short version is this: they are emblematic of why I absolutely love microbrands.

Getting this look behind the curtain at Formex's operations was an experience that has gotten my mind running in multiple directions. Apart from the stories that are now waiting to be told, it reinforced what I am coming to believe about the world of horology: the really fun stuff is happening on this side of the fence. Indie and microbrand shops like Chris Ward, Furlan Marri, and Formex are breaking through what is expected from this sector. My hope is that they continue to remain independent and don't get sucked up by LVMH or Swatch Group.

My biggest takeaway from this afternoon in Biel was the importance of this sector to the development of horology in general. It was something that Markus Wälchli, Brand Directory and Co-Owner of Formex mentioned to me almost in passing.

We were chatting with Sabrina, who had been working at Formex for all of three days when I showed up. She will be doing Marketing Design for Formex and will be joining Markus on a business trip to Detroit.

"Detroit?" I asked. "Why Detroit?"

"We have a meetup," Markus said. "With a RedBar club, but also with another club called CP Time. That club is [comprised of] members who are viewing their love for horology through the Black lens - that's how they call it. So it's mainly African-Americans, who don't maybe feel included in other watch clubs because it's..." he gestured to his own bearded face "... mainly white guys. So they founded their own watch club and reached out to me because they really like what we do, apparently. So we'll visit them."

The topic of inclusiveness in horology is not talked about much, but it should be. Horology is AMAZING. I think it could perhaps become one of the most relatable things in the world. It's not now and that's on us as horology nerds, enthusiasts, industry professionals, and collectors. We don't do nearly enough to educate, to inform, to entertain, but most importantly to reach out to people who might be interested in this field and bring them in.

We can have some great conversations around how and why to bring people into the community, but I think there's a means that's incredibly powerful staring us right in the face: independents and microbrands. What Markus said above? That's important and should resonate with more of us.

Here's a company out of Switzerland, located in the heart of Switzerland's "watch valley", in the home of some of the biggest watch companies in the world (hi Swatch Group, nice museum you got there), that's reaching out to groups in Detroit, Michigan. Mike Pearson of Christopher Ward is now CW's "man in America" and has been hitting up almost every watch show that pops up. Small shows like Intersect LA, which I attended a few weeks ago, are bringing accessible horology to places everywhere. The big brands aren't showing up (though Casio and Miyota do come to Windup Watch Fair) for these shows. They're content to play out of retail operations, but the small brands are the ones showing up to talk directly to their fans and new prospective customers.

That's the true power of independent and microbrand watch companies. That's what makes what they're doing SO much more exciting to me than what the big houses owned by LVMH or Swatch are doing. And, in the coming weeks and months, I'm going to talk more about this in greater detail - including going into great detail about how technology and an increasingly flexible supply chain is going to serve as not only an equalizer, but also a competitive advantage for a number of small brands.

For now, as I pull into Geneva's Cornavin train station, goodbye from Switzerland. More to come...

This is a super-short update, so here goes.

Cheap tickets for short flights rock. I found a sub-$100 ticket to go down to Los Angeles for the day and jumped on it. Why? Intersect Los Angeles, of course.

I love watch shows. They’re the ultimate nerd meetups; I hung out on the couches in the back for a half hour and ended up talking about everything from watch movements to real-world dive testing with three different people.

This time though, I had a more specific motive. I wanted to meet with the reps from two brands who have ateliers in Switzerland.

Why? Well, I’m headed for Zurich on Saturday and while this is a vacation with my lovely wife, I fully intend to get away with some watch-related activities.

My wife said I could. Love you babes.

So I wanted to arrange some conversations while I’m there. I’ll be going to Bienne, will swing by the Musée international d'horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, visit the Oris factory in Holstein, and maybe hit up a couple of other places. It would be great to have those meetings with certain people scheduled while I’m there.

Possible? We shall see. The map above has my bucket list, but my wife only has so much patience for waylaying our one vacation a year.

Also, I do have a bigger update coming from Intersect, but here’s something very interesting I learned from James Mulvale of Farer.

We were chatting about the Elaboré-grade Sellita SW536 M MP movement movement in their new monopusher GMT watches and I was marveling at the decoration of the movement. That kinda led into this conversation about the breadth and depth of variety when it comes to the skills involved in watch manufacturing in Switzerland.

“You might have this one shop in Switzerland that’s really good at making dials,” James told me. “But then you might have this other place that’s really good at painting the dials and so the dial maker might go, ‘Hey, I’ll send you my dials to paint.’ And then there might be this other place that’s amazing at putting lume on so you want to send the dials on to that person. There’s this depth of singular skills you find in Switzerland that you can’t find anywhere else.”

It is, I realized, a geographically spread-out assembly line that stretches across maybe a hundred or more miles. In fact, there’s this region in Switzerland called the “Watch Valley” - some of the towns in the map above are in that zone - that houses probably the single greatest concentration of watch know-how in the world.

This is the sort of thing you can expect to see more of in the coming months on I&M. I hope you’re as excited about it as I am.

Windup for me isn’t something I just sort of blow through in an hour. I need to get in there, get the lay of the land, make mental notes of where everything is, then head on over. There’s some serious strategery here, folks.

There’s a pattern to my meandering and it’s usually the same one at every event. This time, on my fifth Windup, I decided to change things up.

Normally, I focus on the watches. Who’s got cool stuff, who’s got that hot piece they’re all talking about, things like that. On occasion, I’ll go talk to a watchmaker who is making that piece I know I will want and I’ll pester them for a release date. But even then it’s all about the watches.

I dropped that pattern this time. This time, I wanted to just... talk to people. Have real conversations with my fellow horology nerds. The watches got plenty of my attention, but not nearly as much as the people.

When the fair was over, I realized something. I had photographed maybe four or five watches in an arena that had hundreds around me. Instead I was much more focused on the people. This made my Windup experience much richer and more fulfilling than I’d expected and it dovetailed with the new direction for this newsletter that I talked about last year.

So here’s a slightly different twist on a Windup wrapup story - one I had to think about for a bit before I could write it.

So Whom Did I Speak With?

Some folks I spoke with, I did so intentionally. Some conversations happened totally by chance.

Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega, Lorier

The names might be new to you, but the brand shouldn’t be. Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are the people behind Lorier, the brand that makes some of my absolute favorite pieces. Right now the one that gets all the wrist time is the Cosmic Blue Astra (tragically, it’s sold out).

We chatted a bit about some of the models, discussing what’s sold out and what’s coming, as well as some of the feedback they’re getting about their pieces. One of the things I like a lot about Lorier’s pieces is the clasp on their bracelet. It’s tiny, but still manages to pack in three microadjust holes so it’s not hard to find a solid fit. I mentioned this to Lorenzo and his reaction was both funny and sadly unsurprising. Apparently they’d been getting some flak for the clasp. People want the new hotness; toolless microadjust on the fly, that sort of thing.

That’s not Lorier’s stock in trade. They’re all about the vintage look and feel, albeit made with modern materials where it makes sense. Their design language is pretty cohesive across the lineup and they stay very true to it. Asking for toolless microadjust clasps is no different to them than asking for sapphire crystals or display casebacks; it’s not what you buy a Lorier for.

Another attendee overheard part of our conversation and asked for a wrist check. I pulled back my sleeve to reveal my own Cosmic Blue Astra.

Keep doing what you’re doing, L&L.

Camille Reix, Furlan Marri

I’ve don’t believe I’ve met Camille before. She’s been with relative newcomer Furlan Marri for about a year and change and represented them at Windup SF. I think I may have spoken to her briefly at Windup in New York last year; my memory’s a bit fuzzy.

On display was their Flyback chronograph sporting a movement that’s been quietly getting some buzz in indie/microbrand circles, the AMT5100. Decorated with 18K gold specifically for the Honey Blue iteration of their chrono, the movement is richly adorned with Côtes de Genève and guilloché on some of the components. Blued screws and a blued column wheel complete the look.

Camille comes to FM from solid horological pedigree. Formerly of MB&F and Czapek & Cie, she has a Masters in Political Science from the University Bordeaux Montaigne. We had a great chat about my very first Furlan Marri piece, the Black Sector Ref 2116-A, before turning to the Honey Blue Flyback chrono on display. She was justifiably proud of the gold decoration on the AMT5100.

“It’s something they did just for us,” she said. “You can’t get that anywhere else.”

We chatted some more about the movement, swapped business cards, and promised to catch up. I definitely need to reconnect before New York.

William Brackfield and Patrick Gilbertson, Christopher Ward

Look, let’s get this out of the way. Will’s a devious fellow who delights in my agony at how he costs me more money almost every time I see him. Seriously, the ONLY reason he didn’t cost me money at last year’s SF Windup was because I was still recovering from my Bel Canto purchase - which he was directly responsible for.

This time, it was that damnable Twelve X that has my bank balance weeping. More on that later.

Truthfully, I love talking to Will. I learn something from him every time. He’s the one that turned me onto the AMT5100 chrono movement and pointed to Furlan Marri if I wanted to see one in the metal. Every time he speaks, I pick up something new (and spend more money but let’s leave that one alone for now) and he’s a pleasure to chat with.

I spent some time speaking with Patrick Gilbertson this time around too. He’s a PR and Content Manager with CW and is my press contact there. I’ve exchanged emails with him before, but this is the first time I’ve had a chance to meet him in person.

Patrick has an awesome attitude. I professed to being new to the watch media world and admitted that CW might not get much bang (or bank) for any time or effort invested in me, but he was shaking his head before I even finished.

“No no, that’s completely alright,” he said, trying to talk as he inhaled the bag of crisps he was getting into when I walked up to him. “Sorry - this is the only food I’ve had all day,” he added as I waved off the apology. “Look we’ve all got to start somewhere, right? I’m happy to work with you. We’ll grow together.”

CW is growing in leaps and bounds, so I appreciate their willingness to work with a smaller outlet.

BTW, once Patrick and I were done chatting sales and marketing, I went over to say hello to Olivia. She’s been a staple at every Windup I’ve been at and is the one that handles a lot of the hard work as CW’s Partnerships & Events Manager. Thanks for the swag, Olivia, much appreciated.

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Okay, this post got a bit longer than I expected and I’m just a bit over halfway done. I spoke to a few more people that I’ll do a followup post on in a week.

It’s 22:30 PST in California, 05:30 GMT as I finish writing this. Cheers and happy Wednesday.

I posted this on Instagram the day before yesterday and it was pretty gratifying to have folks welcoming me back.

I took an extended hiatus away from I&M for health and family reasons. While some things haven’t calmed down as much as I’d like, enough has that I am ready to get back to work. I have a new shooting space that is still very much under construction and will take at least another month to be work-ready, but I’m done using that as an excuse. I miss the watch world.

The timing is… planned, actually. While most of the horology world looks forward to Watches and Wonders and its ilk, we indie and microbrand fans have another event to look forward. Windup Watch Fair, which happens three times a year, starts today and it’s an absolute blast. The first one is in San Francisco and therefore in my back yard - if a bit further this year since I moved from Burlingame to Menlo Park.

A lot of the usual suspects are going to be back, but this time they’re going to be spread out across two floors at Fort Mason.

There’s a lot I’m looking forward to, so here’s a quick look at who and what I’m eager to see.

Christopher Ward

The folks at CW are always fun to talk to and hang out with. I usually end up learning a thing or two with them and they’re all a delightful bunch.

Except this guy.

This is Will Brackfield. Somehow, I always end up with a lighter wallet or a sobbing credit card after talking to this guy. I’ve asked his boss Mike to fire him.

I don’t think Mike is going to do it.

Might have something to do with some big award they won and apparently he helped design the watch that won it for them.

Allegedly.

Anyway, he did do me a solid and sent me a very nice autographed copy of a magazine he was featured in, so I guess he’s all right.

I’m also looking forward to seeing the new Twelve X (Ti). While not anywhere near my budget (it retails for around $5,000), it’s still one I wanna see in the metal.

Fears

This year, the billing on the Windup site reads “Fears presented by Topper” For those who don’t know, Fears is one of my favorite watch brands and are UK-based. They have had multiple tie-ins with one of my local watch shops, Topper Jewelers in Burlingame. I may have moved south about 15 miles further away from Topper than I used to be, but they are still one of my favorite places to visit.

One one occasion, they did an in-store meetup where the owner of Fears, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill came out and told some great stories of how their partnership with him started and some really touching stories of how Fears lived through Covid.

Nicholas (on the left) is always charming, always fun to talk to, and never snooty. Neither, for that matter, is Rob Caplan (on the right), one of the owners of Topper Jewelers.

And that’s what I love about this world. I’m sure there are some truly snooty people out there, but for every one of those people, there are folks like Rob and Nicholas. Topper occupies a huge space on tony Burlingame Ave., with a dedicated in-store Omega boutique and brands like Bremont, Blancpain, Breitling, Moser, and Parmigiani Fleurier. Alongside the $90,000 Mosers are $90 G-Shocks and honestly, I’ve never seen Rob or any of the people at Topper be anything but perfectly gracious with me or any of the customers.

Also, Topper’s pre-owned section is 🔥. New stuff drops every Friday morning at 9am Pacific. Bought my first Christopher Ward there.

Islander Watches

Islander Watches is the house brand of Island Watch, an online retailer based out of Long Island, NY. Owner Marc Frankel started the brand with Seiko homages and while he hasn’t stopped staying true to those roots, he has stepped outside them too. This Swiss-movement-driven Republic GMT is still in my regular rotation.

I bought this one at a past Windup in NYC.

That’s Marc on the right. Can’t miss him - he’s the only person I know who wears two watches.

Straum

“Striking” is the first descriptor that comes to mind with Straum. I have been on the fence with them because these can either be outstanding pieces or they could be utter garbage in the hand. It’s why I haven’t made the leap yet.

So of course I was thrilled to see their name on the roster. Of course, their sub-€1000 line is all sold out, so we’ll see what happens…

Oris

I love my single Oris Aquis Upcycle, but I’ve got my eyes on some nice Artelier pieces too.

Lorier

The husband and wife team of Lorenzo & Lauren Ortega make Lorier one of the most fun brands to follow. Brilliant vintage-inspired pieces with as close to the design and materials as you can get. My Astra is my absolute favorite of the three Loriers I own.

More to come…

There are so many others, but it’s almost 3am and I’m wiped. Good night/morning/whatever it is, wherever you are. More to come from the fair itself when I make it there late afternoon.

Cheers,

Sohail

Introduction

It hasn't escaped my notice that the first three reviews I've done on this site were all of watches made by American brands. It also hasn't escaped me that the next two (including this one) are also watches from American brands. And if that wasn't enough, the last two watches I bought? Also American brands.

But more on that in another post...

Today, I'm gonna talk about a new watch from a new brand that, quite frankly, took me a bit by surprise. On the one hand, I really liked the watch. On the other hand, I wasn't sure I'd be up for shelling out $895 for a newcomer brand's debut piece. I'm the master of self-justification when it comes to making allowances for high watch prices, but even I struggled there.

Jonnie LaMotte, one of the brand's founders, did make things a bit easier a few days ago when he let me know that a version of the Balboa would be made available sans its very nice leather strap and on a NATO-style instead for $100 less. This, I think, makes the Balboa  more palatable. In fact, I wore the watch almost exclusively on a single-pass nylon strap myself; it just absolutely shines in that configuration.

I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's start with...

Specifications

Case Size: 39mm.

Lug Width: 20mm.

Lug-to-Lug: 48mm.

Case Thickness: 12.20mm with crystal.

Case Material: 316L stainless steel.

Crown: Signed

Caseback: Exhibition, screwed-in.

Colorways: Stainless Steel

Bracelet/Strap: Hand-stitched, choice of brown Horween or gray Barenia leather, moisture resistant lining, embossed logo on inside lining.

Water Resistance: 10ATM/100 Meters

Dial: Brushed stainless steel.

Indices: Hand-applied

Hands: Three hands, polished, with BGW9 Super-Luminova lume.

Crystal: Sapphire

Bezel: Stainless steel

Movement: Americhron 7000 Series automatic self-winding, designed and assembled in the USA using domestic and foreign parts, 28800 bph, accuracy -10 to +30 sec per day. (7A20)

Price: $895 USD. Note: a NATO-only option is available for $100 less

My Take on the Specs

Solid. The Balboa ticks off a lot of boxes for me; in fact, the only one I'm kinda bummed about is the lack of a date option. It's a debut piece, I get that - but I do love my date windows.

Despite the lack of a screw-down crown, the Balboa does manage to pull off 10ATM of water resistance. This isn't a dive watch (I see it as more of a field watch) so 10ATM is plenty. I would've preferred a screw-down crown but  that's nitpicking and not necessary for what the Balboa is intended to be. The crown itself is well-sized and I had no issues winding it or adjusting the time with it. The coin-edge grip helps in that regard.

The supplied leather strap is nice, with padding near the lugs. It'll take some breaking in, but looks great - at least, the gray one I got with my review unit does. It matched the dial perfectly and, frankly, I didn't really find a better leather strap for it.

I will say this: there needs to be a bracelet option. I put a Zelos bracelet on it, just for kicks, and, well, look:

See? It needs a bracelet.

Back to the specs. Let's talk about that movement.

This isn't the first watch movement from an American company this century - that honor belongs to Nashville-based Weiss Watch Company and the CAL 1003 movement. They included that movement in one of their limited-edition pieces, but as far as I know, they have not licensed or sold it to anyone else.

The Americhron 7000 (7A20) movement produced by FTS out of Arizona, on the other hand, is intended for use by other brands. FTS, which also makes a quartz movement used by New York's Islander Watches, is a company out of Arizona that is bringing watch movement production back to the US. I say "production" because the parts for the Americhron 7000 were actually manufactured by Titan Company Limited out of India. The movement is assembled and tuned here in the States.

Share Indies and Micros

To be fair, while this is a new movement that’s untested by time, watch movements aren’t exactly state secrets anymore. It’s not completely prohibitive to design and produce a three-hand movement in the States - it’s just more expensive. The Balboa’s price reflects that reality. Moreover, if your goal is to help support American horology, getting the Balboa means you do that and end up with a good-looking watch to boot.

Look and Feel

I really dig this watch. On either the supplied leather strap or my gray and black Zulu Diver single-pass nylon strap, this watch sits very nicely on my wrist. I have a 7-inch wrist and the 48mm lug-to-lug distance works just fine for me - and I suspect it'll work just fine on wrists as small as 6 inches. That's because the Balboa's lugs have a decent downturn to them that compensates well for the additional width of the sapphire caseback. It doesn't quite wrap the watch around my wrist; it's just curved enough to make it comfortable.

Weight-wise, it’s not a chonkster. It’s actually pretty well-balanced on my wrist and I have no complaints about it feeling heavy or unweildy. At just over 12mm, it slips under a dress shirt sleeve just fine (and looks completely at home, too). Take it off the leather and add the aforementioned nylon strap and you have a really solid everyday wear piece.

In fact, that is perhaps one of the Balboa‘s greatest strengths. On the leather, that clean, well finished case and sparse dial means it passes handily as a business casual watch. The applied indices with polished edges enclosing plenty of lume stand proudly from the dial. A painted minute track meets the blued seconds hand, which looks amazing under the right light. The company's wordmark, the name of the watch, the word "Automatic" and the water resistance rating is all that jumps out on the almost spartan dial. Capping it all off are the fencepost-style hour and minute hands that carry the lume-filled, polished-edge motif forward.

If that's all you had, this would be a handsome watch. But it's not. There's the question of the rehaut.

I had a hard time telling this from the initial images I saw and when I got the watch... well, it didn't get easier. It's a nice bit of optical illusion; the rehaut with its printed minute track, which is darker than the dial, actually appears to sit below the dial. The difference in color and finish makes it look like we have a very layered, three-dimensional thing going on here; a layer containing the outermost track on the bottom, then the main dial, then the applied indices and hands.

Turning and twisting the watch enhances that bit of optical trickery and elevates the watch from "hey, not bad," to "oh that's cool." It increases the watch's glanceability (is that a word?) and keeps drawing your eyes back to it in a way that, well, I just hadn't considered.

Flip the piece over and you have that Americhron 7000 movement under an exhibition caseback. It's not a spectacularly designed movement or anything, but it does have a few very nice touches. The rotor is skeletonized and the LaMotte appears to have allowed FTS to keep their branding on it. This must be intentional to show off the American origin of the movement and I'm glad they went that way. It's a rugged-looking movement, with a bridge on top of the balance wheel that adds to its workhorse look and feel. A note to FTS: blue that bridge and rotor. That'll make it look really awesome.

Final thoughts

I really like this watch. No joke; for a debut unit, this isn't just "not bad", it's actually good. The optical trickery of the dial, the well-done indices, the exhibition caseback - they all combine to make this a watch that I'd happily add to my collection - once they add a date version 😉. To me, that's the thing that is missing and I hope Lamotte does release one of those. I'm very curious to see how they interpret the date window on that dial.

Let's talk about that price. I think the $795 version with the NATO-style strap is the one to get, but I'm sure that some folks will still see that as too high. I can see why; as a microbrand consumer, I've gotten spoiled by brands that deliver amazing value for a lot less. I understand why the price has to be high, though - an American-assembled movement inside an American-assembled timepiece was never going to be cheap. I don't know how much the Americhron costs, but I suspect LaMotte could've shaved off a few hundred by going with a workhorse Miyota high-beat movement. If they did that though, the Balboa wouldn't be the watch it is. Ultimately, you're paying for what the Balboa represents: a well-made timepiece that is as American inside as it is outside.

There's a lot to like about the Balboa and very, very little to dislike. It's a strong debut for LaMotte and just as strong for FTS. I look forward to seeing what the LaMotte brothers have in store for the future.

Introduction

I have two dive watches in for review and am about to get a third. Honestly, I thought I was done with dive watches and was ready to focus on GMTs and chronographs - and perhaps some dress watches and other such timepieces.

It's good to have a plan. The reality though is that no plan survives first contact with reality - and that's exactly what happened when my plans made said contact.

That "contact" was with the Traska Freediver. I spent a solid six weeks with it and it is now among my three favorite dive watches.

Specifications

Case Size: 40.5mm

Lug Width: 20mm

Lug-to-Lug: 48mm

Case Thickness: 10.5mm without crystal, 12mm with crystal.

Case weight:

Case Material: 316L stainless steel, solid end-links, with scratch-resistance coating.

Crown: Signed, screw-down

Caseback: Screwed-in with individual serial number.

Colorways: Carbon Black, Arctic White, Sun-Bleached Orange, and Mint Green.

Bracelet/Strap: 316L stainless steel with fully articulating bracelet and scratch-resistance coating.

Water Resistance: 200m/660ft.

Dial: Lacquered dial.

Indices: Hand-applied

Hands: Diamond-cut, three hands, polished hands with BGW9 Super-Luminova lume.

Crystal: Double-domed sapphire

Bezel: Polished Ceramic

Movement: Miyota 9039 (date) and 9019 (no-date)

Additional Data: Perlage finish on microadjust buckle, available in both no-date and date versions.

Price: $635 USD

My Take:

Traska is known for having one of the best spec sheets in the indie/microbrand world. Jon Mack of Traska seems to take a look at watches that often cost many times what he charges, then go, "Hold my beer."

Looking down the list, there are only two things I wish were on this list: an exhibition caseback and a toolless microadjust on the bracelet.

Maybe someday...

Now, while I pine for the two items that aren't on this spec list, there is, quite literally, absolutely nothing on this list that I even mildly disagree with. That is honestly a surprise because literally every potential objection I might have to any of the above specs is put to rest by a stellar implementation. For example, the bracelets don't come with quick-release pins, but Traska's drilled lugs make detaching the bracelets very easy and putting them back on is just as simple. Plus, one of the things that worries me about removing and reattaching bracelets - scratching up the case - is not at all a concern here, given the scratch-resistant coating on the case.

Now, let's dive into how these specs translate into...

Look and Feel

First Impression:

The specs don't really do justice to how good the Freediver looks on my wrist. On the bracelet, there's something vaguely reminiscent of a 1970s skin diver aesthetic about it. It wears pretty close to the 40.5mm size, but I had a hard time believing that the lug-to-lug length was indeed 48mm. So, out came the calipers and... 47.9mm.

That was pretty surprising, since it wears much closer to a 47mm or even a 46mm lug-to-lug piece. It sits very comfortably on my 7" wrist with no overhang whatsoever. It might not sit as well on wrists 6" and smaller, but the slim profile of the 10.5mm case (12mm on my calipers with the crystal) should still go a long way towards overall comfort and appearance.

Dial Face:

My review unit is the Carbon Black colorway of this watch - which is what I've already preordered. The only difference is that the review piece is a no-date model, while I've opted for the date version. Either way, the dial used for the Freediver is a lacquered dial and it shows. The black is a deep, bottomless, pitch black with an almost mirror finish that, under the right light, engages in a really spectacular dance of reflecting the polished edges of the indices and handsets with the double-dome crystal. In fact, for a while I wondered if this pre-production unit didn't have any anti-reflective coating, but nope, it's that amazing dial.

Side note: I think antireflective coatings are overrated. I'm not a Navy SEAL that worries about the glint of my wristwatch giving away my position, nor am I bothered by having to turn the watch a few extra degrees to read the time under bright conditions. I know I'm in the minority on this one, but... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The dial face houses a minimal amount of decoration. There's the Traska word mark and logo, the word "Automatic", and the water resistance rating of 200m/660ft. That lacquered dial is given plenty of negative space to stand on its own and this is absolutely the right decision. 

To me, minimalism executed well is elegant. That's what the Freediver manages to achieve; it's not a spartan minimalism, it's just what's needed and nothing more. The dial surface, indices, and hands are the star of the watch surface and keeping everything else to the bare essentials is something you just can't go wrong with.

Speaking of the indices and hands, I do have a tiny bone to pick here that has nothing to do with the Freediver itself but rather the other dive watch in Traska's lineup. That would be the newest generation of the Seafarer. I bought the first gen and absolutely fell in love with the skyscraper handset. Then Traska comes out with this one and now, the Seafarer and Freediver share that overall handset appearance. To me, that's kinda sad - I really really liked the Seafarer's Gen 1 handset and am happy to have that in my collection.

Back to the Freediver; the indices here are hand-applied and the edges are rhodium-plated. Trapezoidal in shape, the indices are filled with BGW9 Super-Luminova lume and in the dark, they absolutely shine. This is not the hyper-aggressive green lume that can act as a night-light; rather, this is an application that makes the watch face eminently readable in almost every condition. The lume lasts a decent amount of time too; I have woken up in the middle of the night and glaced at my night stand to find the gentle blue of the lume still shining enough to get a read on the time.

The handset design matches the indices really well. The hour and minute hands are both sword-shaped, but tappering to a very slim, but noticeable, flat edge. What's cool about them is that the hour hand actually seems to mirror the hour indices on the dial, which is a nice visual. They are filled with the same blue lume as the indices and edged with the same rhodium plating. In bright conditions, the shiny hands make the time easy to pick out, while in dark conditions, well, see above 🙂.

The seconds hand that sweeps smoothly around the dial thanks to the high-beat Miyota movement features a lume-filled pip about two-thirds of the way down. That pip is actually visible in the dark. It's a pretty delicate hand that would've looked out of place on a dive watch but on the Traska, it jumps out alongside the other high-polish hands and is therefore a pretty solid match.

I have the no-date version, but my preorder is for the date version. Here's my only complaint about the date dial: I would have preferred it to be color-matched. The white date dial looks a bit out of place, but I'd rather have a date than a no-date watch.

Bezel:

I nerd out over bezels. That's a good thing, given that these days, bezels in the microbrand world have exploded in color, quality, materials, shapes, thickness, and finishes. From Christopher Ward's curved sapphire inserts to Formex's matte-finish ceramics, there's no shortage of variety these days.

Unfortunately, a lot of microbrands also get a lot wrong here. Some go with ceramic bezels but don't bother to finish them properly. Others pay little attention to alignment and backplay, resulting in a very floppy feel to the rotation. Some friction-fit bezels - which I actually like quite a bit, by the way - simply don't have the right amount of friction and end up either being waaaaay too loose or way too tight.

So I'm pretty delighted when I get a timepiece with a bezel that's really good quality.

The bezel on the Traska?

It's not good quality.

It's great quality.

Seriously, I love this bezel. On the Carbon Black colorway, the ceramic insert is finished to a mirror sheen that is just dazzling in the right light or goes pitch dark with a slight change of angle. The numerals at the 15, 30, and 45-minute mark are actually cut into the ceramic, as are all the other markers on that bezel. They are filled with lume that shines every bit as well as the application on the indices and hands.

The coin-edge bezel has been made a bit sharper and has transitioned from a gloss finish to a brushed one from the previous iteration of the Freediver. It is easy to grip and, when turned, moves with just the right amount of resistance to it. The sound of the clicks is clean and bassy, with zero backplay and perfect alignment.

I'm plagued with OCD for some very specific things. Marker alignment on watches — or, rather, misalignment — triggers me like nobody's business. No matter how often I spun that bezel, that round pip at the 12 o'clock position always came and rested perfectly where it was supposed to.

At this point, I'd remind my readers that this is NOT a production unit that's seen no other users. It's a pre-production unit that has spent time with other reviewers and so has seen a lot of use. It's also been with me for six weeks now and I've not been gentle with it. That's kind of a precondition for doing a Field Report; I have to have the watch on loan for at least a month, otherwise I can't do a full Field Report. Six weeks later, the Traska looks and feels - and performs - as well as it did the day I got it.

Bracelet:

Let's get my one complaint out of the way: there's no toolless microadjust. In this day and age, I feel like that should come with every bracelet. My wrists tend to swell and it's annoying to have to carry a tool with me to adjust the bracelet.

...

Yes, I do carry a strap change tool with me. Yes, everywhere. Don't you?

Okay, with that tiny complaint out of the way, let me spend a few sentences raving about Traska's bracelets in general. Made from 316L stainless steel and coated with the same stuff that Traska coats all of their watches with, it not only holds up really well, it just completely kicks ass. For one, my year-old Traskas still look as new today as they did when I got them and that's not something I can say about every watchmaker. They look handsome as well; solid end links grace the 20mm lug size that tapers down to 16mm. The clasp is just a bit larger at 18.2mm on my calipers and without question, looks smooth and svelte with linear brushing and an engraved logo.

Dual release buttons reveal a very nice and very much appreciated touch: perlage decoration on the inside of the clasp. This is something no one else but you will see, but it'll put a nice smile on your face every time you see it. It's one of those thoughtful touches that makes Traska owners fans of the brand.

The sides of the clasp are polished to a mirror sheen and this is something I was worried about getting scratched easily before I remembered that the bracelet has the same scratch-resistant coating as the rest of the watch does.

Side note: This is something I think all manufacturers should start adding to their watches.

Five microadjust holes in the clasp offer a very useful 10mm of adjustment. Coupled with the fully articulating links, this means that finding the right fit for your wrist shouldn't be hard at all. The links themselves are connected with screw pins and I had no issues adjusting the bracelet with a simple jeweler's screwdiver.

The end-links are solid and connected flush against the case, which is pretty good. I've seen a few watches of late where the bracelet doesn't _quite_ sit right, so this little detail is appreciated.

From a wearability perspective, Traska has always made one of the most comfortable bracelets I've worn and this one is no different. I tend to wear bracelet watches a hair looser than needed, especially if they don't have toolless microadjust. I end up with an imprint of the bracelet on my wrist anyway, but it's worse if I don't keep it slightly loose. With Traska, though, I'm not sure what it is but these bracelet barely leave a mark. The links aren't especially rounded or anything but nonetheless, they don't feel uncomfortable in the least.

The Watch Case:

This is kinda interesting: I feel like all Traska watches share a sort of common design base. Front to back, from the lugs to the crown, they all have that same Traska DNA that makes their watches recognizable pretty quickly. The Freediver shares that DNA and adds that first-rate bezel, setting it slightly apart from the other watches in the lineup. It's still recognizably a Traska, though, and that's good.

The case sides have gone from being brushed with a polished chamfer to being entirely polished to a high sheen. Normally, I'd worry about a surface like this getting scuffed easily, but the coating once again saves us from that potential issue. The polished sides also add a measure of bling to the piece, but in a subtle way.

The rest of the case is brushed and the combination of the polished and matte finishes works really well. The back is the same solid screw-down case back with pertinent details around the circumference, such as serial number, water resistance, etc.

I've said this before and I'll say it again: I wish this had a display caseback. I get that it would have added a couple of millimeters to the case thickness, but at under 11mm without the crystal, I do feel like there's some room to spare. That said, Traska has never done a display caseback and honestly, I doubt they ever will. So this is really more wishful thinking than anything else.

The crystal that this generation uses is a box-style double-domed sapphire job and it is just right for this watch. Sitting just slightly proud from the bezel, it has no distortion to speak off, does a decent job of negating reflections, but has one interesting flaw: for some reason, light bouncing off the highly polished indices and hands seems to carom between the polished dial and the underside of the crystal. This often led me to do a double-take, thinking that the crystal had somehow, improbably, gotten scratched. Once I realized what it was... well, I still did a few double-takes but got used to it.

A few words about the crown: I friggin love it. All watches should have crows like this: large, grippy, and well-finished. It's signed with the Traska logo and screws in and out of the case like a dream. There's no wiggle here that I can discern, so it catches into the threads in the case perfectly and there's no misalignment at all. The movement it attaches to is butter-smooth and I imagine the date version of this timepiece will have the same kind of fluid manipulation as well.

Performance

Speaking of that movement, let's talk about it. Anecdotally, I had no issues with it; it kept time as well as I'd expect a workhorse high-beat Miyota movement to keep. Power reserve was also right in line with the advertised 42 hours and I really didn't see anything to complain about. There is a tiny bit of play when you are setting time, but honestly, it's better than some watches I've paid three times that amount for.

On the timegrapher, the results were consistent with what I saw anecdotally.

How I Test

I use a Weishi Multifunction Timegrapher No. 1900. The watch is placed, with the strap attached, onto the clamp and tested in four different positions: dial up, crown up, crown down, and the 12H index pointing down.

Each position is tested for 1 minute, with the results averaged to give me the final score. Here’s the table of results:

An average of about +5 seconds a day is about what I noticed too and that’s a pretty good result. It’s no COSC-certified Chronometer, but it wasn’t designed to be one. I’d rather a watch gain time than lose it and the only time the watch recorded even one negative number was in the Crown Down position. I’m totally happy with the results.

Conclusion and Final Score

I thoroughly enjoyed the Traska Freediver. I do have a preorder in for it (date version, natch) and can’t wait to get it. It is absolutely, 100% the kind of watch I would grab when I can’t decide what to wear. Right now, that distinction goes to only perhaps four watches: the Monta Atlas, the Christopher Ward Trident 300, the Lorier Neptune IV, and now the Traska Freediver. Any of these watches can be used as a GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) timepiece and the Freediver sits very comfortably in those ranks.

The thing about Traska that you have to understand is that Traska’s watches are designed and produced with a careful eye. Every design element is considered carefully - just read the page about the 2023 collection, as an example. Someone who obsesses about the width of the hands being “7.5% wider to give them an ever so slightly more aggressive look” also spends a lot of time obsessing over every other detail - and the Freediver shows that attention to detail.

I love the fact that this watch can - to use an oft-used cliché - be as comfortable under the ocean as it is under a dress sleeve. For my needs, I’ve worn it with a blazer a few times, with jeans and a button-down a few times, and even with pajamas on a lazy Sunday afternoon a few times. It is literally that versatile.

I absolutely love this watch and I think you will too.

The Scoring Scale: 

I don't bother posting reviews of watches I won't recommend. So, anything that I review on this blog will have a score of 5 and above and means that it is a watch I would recommend. In fact, if I bother writing up a long-as-heck Field Report (in excess of 2000 words) instead of a Fast Impressions post, it's likely a 7 and above. With that in mind, here's the scale I use.

5: Worth looking at, but has some significant negatives. Still, something about this watch makes it worth the money. 

6: Recommend, but with some caveats.

7: Absolutely recommended, with just a few nitpicks that are totally subjective. A score of 7 and above is the equivalent of "just throw your credit card at the screen".

8: Excellent, the kind of watch you would want at first glance and one that hits almost all the key points you'd want it to.

9: Class-leading. Ticks every box and then some. Worth every single penny and is likely one of those you'll want to pass down to future generations.

10: No idea. No watch has every made it to this score.

The Score:

With that in mind, I give the Traska Freediver a score of 8.

Monta

St. Louis, Missouri-based Monta first got onto my radar when the inimitable Teddy Baldassarre called the Monta Atlas GMT the best microbrand watch he had ever reviewed. Now, that was 3 years ago and the competition has gotten really fierce (especially in the GMT arena), but despite that, the Atlas (I have the blue dial version) has held up really, really well.

Like many of the other brands in my list, Monta regularly sells out of their offerings. Given the price tags — their most affordable unit starts at a whopping $1700 USD — this may sound surprising, but get your hands on one of these watches and you'll quickly see why it's actually really not surprising at all.

Monta does an amazing job with fit and finish and I'd happily put their watches up against pieces that cost two, three, even four times what they charge. My Atlas was obtained early last year and still sits in my "main" watch box, getting a ton of wrist time.

One of the coolest things about Monta are their bracelets. This, along with Zelos' current crop and Christopher Ward's bracelets, are, in my opinion, some of the best in the industry. They feature extremely comfortable links and — my favorite part — toolless microadjust. This is incredibly useful and honestly, one of the main reasons why I often replace bracelets on watches with leather straps. Not for my Atlas or my Triumph, though. Those stay on their OEM bracelets.

Nodus

These guys — and it is the brainchild of two gents from Los Angeles — have been on a tear recently. I currently have their Sector Deep Destro in for review and am absolutely loving it. I don't usually go for aggressive tool watches like this one, but the Deep is really sitting nicely with me.

That Sector series of watches is what really caught my eye with Nodus. Consisting of six models (Sport, Pilot, GMT, Field, Dive, and Deep), these are more than enough to get Nodus onto this list. I bought their GMT on the spot at Windup Watch Fair in NYC last year and have been bugging Wes and Cullen (the aforementioned guys from LA) for a NodeX™-equipped bracelet for it. If they'd stopped there, that would've been just fine.

Of course, they have not. Apart from two other watch models (The Avalon and the Retrospect, they just launched a fourth, more dressy, more diminutive line: the Unity. Still very much a sport watch, the 36mm case, the textured dial, and ceramic bezel are a new aesthetic for Nodus and deliver a new class of timepiece to their collection. I can't wait to get this one into my hands for a review.

Formex

Formex's Reef GMT was my favorite GMT release of 2022. The Reef series alone (which includes solid dive watches and the aforementioned GMT) is worth taking a look at Formex for, given this model’s unique trick of toolless interchangeable bezels. That GMT, though, took the cake because it is the only GMT in my collection that delivers the holy trifecta: track three time zones, have a display caseback, and a bracelet with a toolless microadjust. That it extends the microadjust feature to both its bracelets and its deployant clasps for its leather straps is just icing on a delicious cake.

Formex is a brand that, quite frankly, feels like they have a team of people who really sweat the details. From Chronometer rating across a wide variety of their models to perfectly-fitted bracelets and straps with ingenious microadjust and quick-release features, they are a true horology nerd's delight.

Farer

Take a British brand. Add a massive dose of color. Throw in some vintage design queues, add a dash of modern elements, and pour that mixture into solidly-made cases. Strap on some excellent leather, fabric, and steel for good measure. Ta-da! Presenting: Farer.

Farer seems to delight in diversity of color, shape, texture, and type. They make vintage cushion-case manual winders like my Stanhope II and sell them right alongside brightly-colored GMTs like the Lander series. Brilliant magenta sun-ray dials adorn classically-styled chronographs like the Swann, while the deep blue Aquamatic Porthleven revels in shouting out loud in color.

Farer is a company that doesn't take itself too seriously and yet builds serious watches. Starting at around $1000 USD, their timepieces are well-built Swiss-made units and the quality is top-notch. The Lander GMT is on my list, but only after I pick up one of their chronos.

Fears

I'll be honest: I don't own a Fears watch.

Yet.

I've had a number of them on my wrist and the Brunswick White 38mm on a blue Bristol Leather strap is my current grail watch.

I've run into Fears a number of times now; they've been at two of the Windup Watch Fairs I've attended and they have a relationship with my local watch Mecca, Topper Jewelers. Of all the brands I've mentioned here, they are by far the priciest - and they're the only ones where I had to use a photo taken from their website as opposed to one I took myself. Their pieces range from $2675 USD for that aforementioned Brunswick White to an eye-watering $28,500 for the Brunswick's platinum-encased sibling.

So, why do I mention such a pricey watch in this list?

There's no specific criteria that makes a watch brand a "microbrand". However, I'm coming to see that there's an ethos to that particular segment of the watch world. It's exemplified by a combination of approachability, price, openness, participation in community, and a certain amount of being grounded in reality.

Fears embodies a number of those criteria. The founder — or rather, the re-founder — of the company, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, always shows up to events looking pretty dapper in a suit and tie, but he is incredibly down-to-earth, grounded, and frank in his conversations. He has openly discussed working in a grocery store during the pandemic while keeping Fears afloat and his stories about building the company are endearing and entertaining. I attended an event hosted by Topper and Fears and it was one of the best conversations I've listened to in the watch world.

Fears also shows up at Windup, which to me is perhaps the best place to get a look at independent and microbrand watches. They have a table right alongside newcomers to this world and companies that have been around longer than this iteration of Fears. Not once do you feel like you can't approach them or try on their pieces. They are very much part of our community and therefore, very much belong on this list.

That's my list of 10 brands you want to know about if you're just starting out in the indie/microbrand world. If you have a brand that I should have mentioned, drop it here! I'd love to see who I missed.

I thought about it hard and here's my list of ten brands you should be looking at. For brevity, I decided to break this up into two parts, with five brands in each post.

Christopher Ward

Here's the paradox: I'm telling you to pay attention to Christopher Ward but of all the brands listed, this is the one that is most likely to cease being a microbrand and "graduate" to becoming an "independent" within the forseable future. As of March 2020, the brand was producing roughly 20,000 units per year and that's likely to have gone up as they've consistently introduced a number of new models in the last couple of years. In fact, Mike France, CEO of CW, believes that the business can generate revenue in the neighborhood of £100 million to £200 million per year. That's a big leap from the roughly £10 million or so they were generating in 2020, but the company has made a lot of solid moves lately, from the launch of the C1 Bel Canto to the newest release, the Twelve.

Compare that with a company like Oris, which already generates roughly $100m or so in revenue with roughly 1.2 million units per year and it's clear CW has a long ways to go. Yet they seem to be well on the way.

I named Christopher Ward my favorite watch brand - and their C1 Bel Canto my favorite overall watch - of 2022. With good reason: the C1 Bel Canto really shook up the watch world and earned nods from a number of people - both watchmakers and buyers alike.

Traska

Jacksonville Beach-based Traska has a lot going for it. The one thing it doesn't have? In-stock items. That's because Traska sells out their inventory within days — and often within hours and even minutes — of releasing their models. A recent switch to a timed pre-order system did wonders for fans of the brand as everyone who wanted a specific model could buy it as long as they were willing to wait for a few months for delivery. That's not unusual in this sector and is just indicative of how much Traska's been hitting all the right notes.

I currently have a review unit of the Traska Freediver and it has successfully changed my mind about dive watches. I was kind of done; the Lorier Neptune IV was going to be my last dive watch and then I was gonna be done, but the Freediver immediately changed my mind. I... may or may not have put in a preorder. Maybe. Or not.

Traska was also one of the first  brands to ship a traveller GMT using the new Miyota 9075 movement. Utilizing their Venturer case and general dial design, they designed a gorgeous GMT that immediately rang the bell as my new favorite GMT watch.

What's even more awesome about Traska is that the most expensive watch on their roster is under $700. The Venturer GMT rings in at $695; all the other units come in in between $600 and $700, which is an exceptional price for what you get.

Zelos

Zelos is a one-man operation out of Singapore, but to be honest, there's no way you'd know that. Elshan Tang, Zelos' founder, designer, customer support rep, etc. has built a brand with the kind of fanatical following that a lot of much larger businesses would love to have. Starting in 2014, Tang has released a mind-boggling thirty-plus models in the last nine years. More astoundingly, most of his lines are sold out. Many of those lines sell out within literally seconds.

Now, that makes sense when you think about the fact that some colorways - like his Aventurine dials - are made in limited quantities. But others, like when he put out a line of GMTs using his Mako 300M dive watch case, often go through the same rapid sales. I watched as some of the colorways of the Mako sold out in mere minutes. Some were still available for a few hours but he had made a few hundred of each color.

Two days or so later, they were all gone. One colorway came back for a brief few minutes — presumably due to a cancelled order — but it too was gone shortly.

Prices are incredibly reasonable too; I've bought Zelos' watches starting around $250. On average, I've seen his watches go for around $500-$700 USD, though the occasional unit like the Vitesse Chronograph does hit the low four figures.

Lorier

Lorier is a husband-and-wife team out of New York that produces what are some of my hands-down favorite timepieces. Their Neptune Mark IV diver is easily one of my most oft-worn pieces and their Gemini Chrono is one that sees a lot of wrist time.

I've had the good fortune to meet Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega a couple of times. My first Lorier watch was the Zephyr, my current favorite dress watch. That tonneau shape and guilloché dial is flat-out gorgeous and adheres to the vintage aesthetic that Lorier is known for.

That vintage vibe is pervasive through Lorier's entire lineup. From the classic Panda dialed chrono to the Neptune diver with its slim bezels and gilt livery, this is the look and feel that Lorier is going for — and it's one that they deliver in spades. Almost all of their watches have hesalite crystals — which I was enormously skeptical of for a while but am now a convert to — and the look those beautifully domed crystals impart is downright fantastic.

Lorier prices their pieces very reasonably, too. Prices range from $499 to $799 and are worth every penny. Their customer service is excellent and I have had no complaints about any of the pieces I own.

Baltic

If you're reading this on Monday, June 5, go grab the MR01 right now. It's back in stock and I don't know how much longer it'll last. I had to buy mine pre-owned.

The MR01 is perhaps one of the best examples of Baltic's vintage aesthetic. Alongside the aforementioned Lorier, they are responsible for changing my mind about hesalite crystals. When done right, those crystals can easily go toe-to-toe with sapphire and then some. The microrotor movement in this watch is a Chinese-made Hangzhou CAL5000a and I have to admit, it looks GOOD. Like, really really good. I will do a post on mine soon.

The French brand didn't stop there, however. Their Aquascaphe lineup of divers have the 50s/60s aesthetic that I have come to like a lot and on a nice FKM or even a cognac leather strap, they are eminently wearable.

These days, Baltic is all about chronographs. They've had their Bicompax chronos, which feature those lovely warm hesalite crystals, but they've also got some Swiss-movement-driven Tricompax chronos. Under the double-dome sapphire and the very nicely turned out dials is the Sellita SW510-M chronograph movement. I wish this piece had an exhibition caseback; that would really cinch the deal for me.

Prices do range quite a bit; they have simple three-handers with Miyota movements that go for around €360, while a recent special edition chronograph retailed for more than €2000. They aren't unreasonable, in my opinion, but can be on the pricier side where the chronos are concerned.

---

That's the first five brands. I'll post the next five next week.

This year, the San Francisco fair was twice as large, taking up both floors of the Terra Gallery. The second floor of this space is really nice, with large windows and a lot more floor space for exhibitors. I still think that the lighting in there is kinda terrible for us photographers/videographers, but there are ways to work around it. I felt self-conscious enough walking around the floor slinging two cameras so I might as well have gone for broke and kept a small diffuser and LED light handy. 

Oh well, next time. 

The things that got me excited

Pretty-much everything. The indie/microbrand world is super exciting right now and there are so many amazing watches being released that I almost never have time for a break. 

Brew

I saw this black Brew Metric released online a little while back and nearly pulled the trigger then. I paused because I wasn't sure a 36mm diameter watch would work on my wrist. 

I tried it on at the fair and it was a very easy "YES" at that point. Picked one up the next day from Jonathan Ferrer, the founder of Brew, who had brought three for sale with him. 

echo/neutra

I went in expecting to be interested in the Averau "Big Moon", but ended up interested in their Cortina 1956 Chrono instead. It has all the things I like about Nivada's Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Orange Boy, down to the movement, but for a lower price.

In fact, it was even cheaper during the fair with a 20% off discount. I’m not sure why I didn’t pull the trigger. Call it a moment of instinct. I find it best to heed those.

Baltic's chronos

I intentionally skipped the Tricompax when it was announced (a bit outside my budget). Seeing it on my wrist, though, I asked when it would be restocked. I was told it would be later this year sometime and, well, that's a good amount of time to save up...

The Bicompax series, though, is much more affordable (it comes with a Seagull ST1901 movement, which is MUCH cheaper (they usually go around for around $139 USD, not counting bulk discounts, etc., vs roughly three times that for the Manual Sellita SW510-M). It also has that really nice, warm, hesalite crystal, which I've become something of a fan of - when done right.

Depancel

This brand kinda came out of nowhere for me. They were showing off a chrono at their table that wasn't even on sale yet: the Depancel Jürgen Clauss. 

This is a chunky chrono and apart from the fact that it's got a swiss automatic movement, I don't know anything about it. If the folks at Depancel told me what was in it, I wasn't paying attention. I was kinda just mesmerized by the fantastic finish on this - which the horrible lighting does no favors for. There's a blue and green component to the bezel and the dial has a sunburst effect that's gorgeous in person. This is going on the list.

Bravur

This got a good chuckle out of me: "Swedish Soul, Swiss Heart" is inscribed on the dial where you'd expect to see "Swiss Made" for most watches made in Switzerland. 

The Grand Tour chrono is on the pricier side of things at $2550 USD, but it's one fine-looking timepiece with a bit of a playfulness to it. Also, Bravur gets major points for the exhibition caseback, which a lot of chronos just don't have. I’m going to reach out to this brand to see if I can get a review unit of that chrono.

Christopher Ward

I don't think I've ever been as conflicted about a watch as I am about the XII (Twelve). CW's newest addition is a somewhat late entry to the integrated bracelet game and it's one that I'd dismissed as "not for me" right off the bat. 

Then I saw them in person.

There's the Nordic Blue on a steel bracelet.

The Basalt Gray on a steel bracelet.

And my favorite, the Basalt Gray on a rubber strap. 

This is NOT a dressed-up Tissot PRX or anything else. I haven't liked an integrated bracelet watch this much since my Direnzo DRZ 04 Mondial. 

Damnit, Will Brackfield.

Yeah, I'll likely use up a small portion of my bonus this year on that Basalt Gray on the bracelet and get the rubber strap too. 

Lorier

I love Lorier’s pieces. They’re one of the few brands out there who try and replicate vintage pieces using as many true-to-the-period parts as possible (hence the pervasive use of hesalite in their watches). This time, it was the Astra that caught my eye.

This is one gorgeous timepiece and one of the few 36mm watches that absolutely work for me. The sector dial, the sword handset, the perfectly framed date window, they all just work. This will be a no-brainer pickup when they release it.

Roundup

Kid in a candy store. That's about what I felt like here. I curse and thank Worn and Wound at the same time for what they've accomplished with these fairs. This is my third overall and second in SF and they just keep getting better. The indie/microbrands are in that really steep part of the hockeystick curve when it comes to growth, quality, and marketing. Folks like Nodus Watches, Brew, Formex, Baltic, and others have figured out how to nail that effective combo so well, they are rapidly becoming household names in the watch world. 

I cannot wait for the next Windup. Chicago makes it easier for some midwestern brands to make it over to Windup - so maybe we'll see DuFrane and some others there? I hope so; this is becoming, in so many ways, the Watches and Wonders for independent and microbrand watch makers - only less formal, more collaborative, and definitely more impactful for me.

So let’s start with a few photos instead.

Made it in time to catch most of the first panel of the first day. Mike France, CEO of my favorite brand of 2022, Christopher Ward, discussed - what else - the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto.

Looking as dapper as ever, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill from Fears Watches was there, showing off those amazing British creations of his. Yeah, the Brunswick White is still my grail watch.

Got my eye on you, Brunswick.

Had a great chat with Wes from Nodus. Seems I’m going to get my bracelet for the Sector GMT after all.

That’s Jonathan from Brew in the background, btw. More on them later.

Nodus had a great release with the Unity. The ceramic dials and bezels are fantastic and it’s well worth every penny of the $700. Screen grab from my wristroll video (complete with plastic wrapping) below:

I also got a few minutes of hands-on with the Sector Deep. My review unit is stuck in customs, but should be here soon. Screen grab from my video of the very plastic-laden unit:

And finally, closing out as I began, with Mike France and a previously mentioned mischief maker, Christopher Ward designer Will Brackfield, manning the CW tables.

Will, by the way, is getting top billing in the most recent issue of Loupe magazine, Christopher Ward’s in-house publication. Well done, mate!

I am going back in a few hours (it’s pretty late here) for the last day. I have conversations to have with a few folks and lots more photos to take. Maybe even a certain watch of Italian pedigree and Swiss manufacture to buy.

Cheers,
Sohail

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Windup, though - that’s happening the day after tomorrow right up the road from me. I went that last year and utterly and completely fell in love with it. So much so that I managed to maneuver things so that I could go to the New York edition last year as well. So this will be my third visit.

Here’s what I’m looking forward to:

Christopher Ward

They are my favorite brand of the year for 2022. They’ve been teasing a new release for later today and it looks… interesting.

I’m hoping they’ll have it in the metal at the show.

I’ve already made my “Go big or go home” CW purchase when I got my Bel Canto, so I’m not going to drop another dollar here.

For real. Not one more dollar.

I just need to avoid Will Brackfield.

I also want to see the C63 Blue Marine in person.

And I really want to see the C65 Dune.

Fears

The Brunswick White 38mm is my current grail watch. I saw it last year on a gorgeous blue leather strap.

And then a few days ago, they showed it off on a beautiful jubilee-esque bracelet.

echo/neutra

I’ve had my eye on these folks for a little while now. Their white AVERAU (I don’t know why they use all-caps either) looks super-sharp.

Islander

This is a chronically underrated brand. They started out making homage watches (and still do), but they’ve been putting out some really awesome original timepieces. I have their Republic GMT that I curently have on a leather strap from Baltic. Here it is on an ADPT nylon strap.

This time around, I’m curious about their Port Jeff model, specifically in this gray dial. Not a big fan of the BOR bracelet but I’m still curious.

Lorier

I have a watch I’ve been meaning to send back to Lorier for some tweaks to the bezel and now I’ll have the chance to drop it off in person. Apart from that, I thought I was good to go as far as this brand was concerned.

And then this showed up on Instagram:

Scroll on Instagram till you see the blue and white dial.

Where’s that heart-eyes emoji…?

😍

Maen

I didn’t order it, but I still want to see the Brooklyn 36 triple calendar. It looks very interesting but I’m on the fence about the size.

I’m also curious when I’m going to get my GMT, so…

Nodus

I have one question for Wes and Cullen: when can I buy my h-link strap for my Sector GMT?

I mean, just look at this thing:

Nodus, no fair keeping that bracelet from the rest of us.

Oh yeah, and then there’s the Unity…

… and the Sector Deep, which is such an awesome looking brutalist piece.

My review unit of the Sector Deep is on its way and I honestly can’t wait to dive into it.

Get it? Dive? Cause it’s a… never mind, I’ll show myself out.

I have a LOT of thoughts about Nodus as a company and the Sector series in particular. I have three Nodus pieces in my collection and boy howdy, do they get wrist time. More to come on that later.

What/who I’ll miss at Windup…

There are some brands that won’t make it to Windup. They will be missed.

Traska

Traska’s Jon Mack doesn’t need to come to any fairs; the man’s watches sell out so fast, he could whisper into the wind and his new model would sell out in a heartbeat. That being said, it would be cool to have Traska there; sometimes, being at fairs like this is really more about meeting your fans and customers.

Zelos

Same thing goes for Zelos’ Elshan. He’s in Singapore and you can absolutely bet that this Friday’s release of the Mako GMT will be gone so fast, it’ll give people whiplash. Again, it would be cool to meet him in person but Singapore isn’t exactly around the corner.

DuFrane

I really love what Steven at DuFrane is doing - and you should check out his YouTube channel for his “DuFrane Discussion” series. I lost my Travis a few months ago and have been missing it terribly.

Boldr

Boldr is represented in spirit by the Windup Watch Shop; they’re an authorized reseller and partner with the Singapore-based brand on their ADPT series of watches. With any luck, I’m hoping they’ll have the Globetrotter GMT there for me to gawp at.

I’m sure I’m missing a few people and brands here; it’d be REALLY nice to see some of the folks I follow on YouTube or Instagram there, for example. So, if you’re going to be in SF this weekend and plan on coming by the fair (it’s free!), send me a DM on Instagram: I’m @indiesandmicros.