The I&M May 2025 Roundup
From tool watches, to rectangular elegance, to a dad who takes some of the best watch photos, here's the Indies and Micros May 2025 news, views, and releases roundup.
It's been a busy month, so let's get started
INDUSTRY RECAP: The Last 30 Days in Independent Watchmaking
Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 Delivers Record Turnout
The independent and microbrand watch community came together in spectacular fashion at the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025, held May 2-4 at the Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason.
A few things I missed: Christopher Ward's premiere of "Freewheelin'," their documentary about the innovative C12 Loco movement and the second annual Windup in a Bay expedition, which added an adventurous dimension to the weekend, with participants joining Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx for a campout at Elkhorn Ranch followed by open-water diving off the Carmel coast.
Independent Brands Outperform Major Players
The past month has been exceptionally promising for the independent and microbrand watch scene, with new research revealing a sector that continues to thrive despite broader market challenges. The release of The Independent Watchmaking Report 2025 has provided unprecedented insights into this dynamic segment of the horological world.
The Independent Watchmaking Report 2025, compiled by British watch journalist Chris Hall through his publication The Fourth Wheel, surveyed 81 independent watch brands across 14 countries. The findings paint a picture of an industry segment that not only survived the post-pandemic market cooling but actually flourished in many cases.
It isn't all roses and champagne, however. Despite the optimistic outlook, independent watchmakers face significant operational challenges that could impact their continued growth. The survey identified several key pressure points that brands must navigate in the coming years. I talked about supply chain issues in my Windup recap and the survey respondents concurred with that. 33% of respondents cited problems sourcing the right components. This challenge has been exacerbated by the broader industry slowdown, as Hall explains: "There is a lot of talk of supplier businesses in difficulty because their main clients — the major mainstream brands — are not ordering as much as usual. That has a knock-on effect on the smaller watchmakers who also rely on the same suppliers."
NEW RELEASES: Standout Watches from the Past Month
The past month has delivered an impressive array of new releases from independent and microbrand watchmakers, with a particular emphasis on accessible pricing that brings quality independent horology within reach of more collectors. From Swiss titanium field watches to American travel companions, the diversity of offerings demonstrates both the global reach and democratic spirit of independent watchmaking.
Affordable Titanium Excellence
Swiss independent brand Formex has delivered one of the month's most compelling releases with their updated Field Automatic Gen 2, launched on May 22, 2025. Priced at just $870 for the nylon strap version, this watch represents exceptional value in the titanium field watch segment.
The 40mm case is constructed from hardened Grade 2 titanium using Formex's proprietary hardening process, which increases surface hardness from 145 Vickers to an impressive 900 Vickers – nearly three times harder than standard Grade 5 titanium. This treatment provides exceptional durability while maintaining titanium's lightweight, hypoallergenic, and anti-magnetic properties.
The re-engineered dial features a sophisticated two-part construction with a flat sunburst-finished center surrounded by a sloped minute track, creating an appealing concave profile. New colorways include Ice Blue and Coho Salmon with blacked-out lume, plus Basalt Grey with BGW09 lume that glows white in daylight and blue at night.
The sandwich-style dial design incorporates recessed stencil-cut numerals filled with Super-LumiNova Grade A, paired with a beveled, color-matched date window at 6 o'clock. The chapter ring and cardinal markers support legibility without visual clutter.
Powering the watch is the reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. The 150m water resistance and solid caseback maintain field watch standards while keeping costs reasonable.
Pre-orders opened on May 22 with shipping scheduled for late June 2025. The $995 leather strap option includes Formex's patented fine-adjustment deployant carbon clasp for tool-free micro-adjustments.
High-End Ceramic Innovation
And because one watch wasn't enough, Formex has also made waves this month with their most ambitious release to date: the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC, marking the Swiss brand's 25th anniversary and their first full-ceramic watch. This represents a significant departure from their typically accessible pricing, with the "GT" variant priced at CHF 4,150 (US4,390) and the "Stradale" variants at CHF 3,970 (US4,390).
Developed in collaboration with Dexel (there's a family connection here, btw), a specialist manufacturer with over 40 years of experience working with brands like Girard-Perregaux and Hublot, the Essence Ceramica features a complete zirconium oxide ceramic case and bracelet construction. The 41mm case measures 11.2mm thick with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug distance, maintaining the comfortable proportions of the standard Essence line.
The standout feature is Formex's first ceramic folding deployant clasp with a patented micro-adjustment system – reportedly the first ceramic clasp to offer this functionality. This innovation allows for precise fit adjustments even while wearing the watch, demonstrating Formex's expertise in clasp manufacturing (they also produce clasps for other brands).
I had a chance to get hands-on with this at Windup and without question, it is a stunner.
Travel-Ready Innovation
On May 5, 2025, American microbrand Trafford Watch Co. announced the Daytripper, a travel-oriented wristwatch priced around $799. The marquee feature is a quick-set hour hand, which allows for rapid local time adjustments—a function often reserved for traveler GMT models.
The Daytripper has a 39mm case, is 12.5mm thick, and is topped with a sapphire box crystal. Its dial incorporates both sunburst and radial brushing, giving it a textured effect. The watch uses polished indices that are treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light.
The watch is available in four color options, each named after a different American interstate highway: I-95, I-75, I-70, and I-40. The quick-set hour hand lets users change time zones without halting the movement or disrupting the minute hand.
Trafford is taking reservations for $99, with the remaining payment collected prior to shipping. The first batch is expected to ship in late summer 2025, and initial interest appears high. I had a chance to spend some time with this piece at Windup and honestly, it's really good value for the money. Nathan Trafford keeps knocking it out of the park.
Professional Tool Watches
The Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer GMT is a sub-$1,000 tool watch designed in Los Angeles, released in May 2025. Priced at $625, it was developed through a collaboration with an undisclosed government agency to offer features aimed at field operations.
Key specifications include:
Case and Bezel: 38mm stainless steel case with a wider 42mm bezel, resulting in a 2mm overhang. This provides added protection for the crown and case, as well as improved grip on the 120-click unidirectional bezel.
Water Resistance: Rated to 500 meters.
Crystal and Lume: The watch has a blue-tinted anti-reflective sapphire crystal and both the dial and bezel markings are fully lumed.
Movement and Complications: It runs on the Seiko NH34 automatic movement and features a caller-style GMT function. The GMT hand and the date (at 6 o'clock) can be set independently via the crown.
Compass Feature: A compass bezel is included for basic navigation in the field. By aligning the hour hand with the sun, the wearer can use the bezel to find cardinal directions in the Northern Hemisphere.
Configuration: The watch uses a "destro" (left-handed) layout with the crown at 9 o’clock, intended to reduce wrist interference and protect the crown.
Dial Options: Available in navy and black. The initial batch sold out soon after launch.
While the styling and design choices clearly emphasize functionality, aesthetic considerations don't appear to be secondary. This is one good-looking watch and honestly, if they made a black DLC version with the blue dial, I'd have been throwing my credit card at the screen.
Continuing Excellence from Established Independents
Serica 5303 PLD: The French independent brand Serica has created something pretty special with their collaboration with the EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) Divers of the French Navy. The 5303 PLD represents a really cool intersection of military requirements and civilian watchmaking excellence.
The watch maintains the familiar 39mm stainless steel case architecture of the standard 5303, with its 12.2mm thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug measurement ensuring comfortable wearability. However, the PLD variant incorporates several crucial modifications specifically requested by the French Navy's bomb disposal specialists.
The watch's magnetism resistance, indicated by the "amagnétique" text on the lower dial, was one of the French Navy's requested features, as, for EOD divers, any magnetic disturbance can potentially trigger explosives, making battery-powered watches extremely dangerous in operational environments. Serica's solution demonstrates how independent brands can adapt their designs to meet highly specialized professional requirements
The dark blue bezel insert features a unique "maximum dive time" scale rather than the traditional elapsed time markings. This specialized bezel allows divers to display the maximum allowed operation time for various depths, providing crucial safety information at a glance.
Priced at €1,690, the 5303 PLD EOD demonstrates how independent brands can create meaningful partnerships with professional users while maintaining the design integrity that defines their civilian collections.
Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition: Baltic's third year as official timekeepers for the Tour Auto has produced their most accomplished sports chronograph to date. The Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 represents a significant evolution of the brand's motorsport-inspired design language—but it's still recognizable as a Baltic.
The standout feature is the "Big Eye" sub-counter layout, a design element that emerged in 1970s motorsports chronographs to improve legibility during racing conditions. The enlarged minute sub-counter at 3 o'clock dominates the dial, while the running seconds occupy a smaller register at 9 o'clock.
A major technical upgrade comes in the form of screw-down pushers, which enable 100-meter water resistance—a substantial improvement over previous Scalegraph models. This enhancement makes the watch suitable for extreme conditions, reflecting Baltic's commitment to creating tools that can handle real-world use.
Priced at €1,750, the Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 represents exceptional value in the independent chronograph market.
Fears Arnos Pewter Blue: The English independent brand Fears has delivered one of the year's most striking releases with the Arnos Pewter Blue. Drawing inspiration from a rectangular 1920s-30s watch found in the brand's archives, the Arnos represents a masterful blend of historical reference and contemporary execution.
The rectangular case measures 22.6mm in diameter with a 40mm lug-to-lug and 8.4mm profile. The two-part dial construction creates visual drama through contrasting textures and finishes, with a central round blue galvanic time display featuring Roman numerals surrounded by a rhodium-plated hobnail pattern.
Priced at £4,350, the Arnos Pewter Blue represents the first release in what appears to be a new signature collection for the brand.
INSTAGRAM CREATOR SPOTLIGHT: @enthuseddad
This month, we're highlighting one of the most authentic and engaging voices in the watch community: @enthuseddad, run by Corey, a watch enthusiast from the Pacific Northwest who has built a dedicated following through his unique blend of family life and horological passion.
The Dad Who Discovered Watches Complain Less Than Kids
Corey's Instagram bio perfectly captures his approach to watch content: "Watch enthusiast who discovered his watches complain less than his kids when taking their pictures." This humorous yet relatable perspective sets @enthuseddad apart in a social media landscape often dominated by aspirational luxury content and pristine studio photography.
Based in the Pacific Northwest, Corey brings a refreshingly honest perspective to watch collecting and photography. His content demonstrates that serious watch enthusiasm doesn't require abandoning family responsibilities or pursuing only the most expensive timepieces. Instead, he shows how watches can integrate meaningfully into real life, from wearing a Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton to his son's track meets to sharing the story behind his 2007 engagement watch.
Storytelling Through Milestone Watches
@enthuseddad excels at connecting watches to personal narratives, transforming what could be simple product photography into meaningful storytelling. His collection includes several milestone pieces that illustrate how watches can mark important life transitions and achievements.
His engagement watch from 2007 served as his daily wear for six years, including through his wedding day. This Baume & Mercier Hampton XL, acquired for his five-year wedding anniversary, represents the kind of accessible luxury that many collectors can relate to. Rather than focusing on horological complications or investment potential, Corey emphasizes the emotional significance these pieces hold.
Photography Style and Authentic Content
Corey takes all his own photographs, maintaining creative control over how his watches are presented. His aesthetic prioritizes authenticity over perfection, often showing watches in natural settings that reflect their role in his daily life. This approach creates a more accessible and relatable form of watch content compared to the highly stylized photography that dominates much of Instagram. His images often capture the interplay between timepieces and their surroundings, whether that's a hiking trail, a family gathering, or a quiet moment at home.
Follow him at: @enthuseddad
LOOKING AHEAD: What's Next for Independent Watchmaking?
As we progress through 2025, several key trends are emerging that will likely shape the independent watch landscape in the months ahead. The combination of technological advancement, changing consumer preferences, and evolving market dynamics creates both opportunities and challenges for independent brands.
Accessibility and Value Leadership
The month's releases demonstrate a clear trend toward accessible pricing in the independent sector. With standout pieces like the Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer GMT at $625, the Formex Field Automatic Gen 2 at EUR 850, and the Trafford Daytripper at $799, independent brands are proving that innovative features and quality construction don't require luxury pricing.
This opens the hobby to new collectors while challenging the notion that serious horology requires significant financial investment. I expect this trend to continue as brands recognize the market opportunity in the sub-$1000 segment.
Event-Driven Community Building
The success of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 highlights the importance of in-person events for the independent watch community. These gatherings provide crucial opportunities for brands to connect directly with customers, and for collectors to experience watches hands-on
I anticipate continued growth in regional watch fairs and brand-specific events as the community seeks authentic experiences beyond digital marketing. The integration of adventure activities, like Windup's camping and diving expeditions, shows how events can extend beyond traditional retail formats.
Functional Innovation at Accessible Prices
The month's releases showcase how independent brands are bringing traditionally expensive complications to accessible price points. Trafford's quick-set hour hand, Nodus's caller GMT, and Formex's hardened titanium construction demonstrate that innovation doesn't have to be a stranger to affordability.
This trend toward functional accessibility will likely accelerate as brands compete on value rather than exclusivity, ultimately benefiting collectors who seek practical features without premium pricing.
Stay tuned for our June edition, where we'll continue tracking these developments and highlighting the most exciting new releases from the world of independent watchmaking.